The Lowbrow Customs Solo Seat Pivot is made right here in Cleveland, Ohio. Heavy-duty stainless steel that is tumbled for a beautiful finish paired with custom-made, chrome plated mounting hardware. With weld-on and bolt-on mounting applications available, installing a solo seat on your chopper / bobber project is easier than ever before. We asked the great Austin Andrella of Austin Martin Originals to share a little of his wisdom and walk us through how he installs a solo seat while using our new Solo Seat Pivot, Weld-On Spring Mounts / Perches, and 2 inch Barrel Style Springs.
Grinder or Disc Sander
Magnets & Magnetic Flex Rod
1/2” & 9/16 open end wrench
Welder (Tig or Mig)
Step 1: To start this job, you will want to make sure the rear wheel, rear fender and gas tank are installed on the frame so you can judge the clearance and alignment from front to back.
Step 2: Measure and mark you center line on the frame where the seat hinge mount will go and also the center line on the cross bar where the spring mounts will go. Use a square to check center lines are equal.
Step 3: Measure the width of the seat hinge mounting bracket. Mark three lines on a ruler as you measure, end of the left side, dead center, and the end of right side of the bracket. Line up the middle mark on your ruler representing the dead center of the mount with your mark you made on the frame. Then make two marks on the left and right ends where you visualized the seat hinge mount will go. Using a square make straight lines down to the end of frame plate. Do the same step on the cross tube but with your seat pan, measure your spring studs on the seat making a mark on the ruler at the center of the left side stud, dead center and the center of the right side stud. From your dead center line on your ruler mark the left and right side measurements on the cross tube where your spring mounts would go.
Step 4: Now it is time to grind the top & bottoms of the springs to make them to sit flush and bolt down straight with your seat mounts. You can use a grinder or a disc sander for this job. To make sure they are level, place them on a flat surface and you will see how they sit flat.
Step 5: The Lowbrow seat pivot comes with a bracket meant for a round back bone tube so we need to get rid of that for this bike I’m currently building. Make a straight line right at the top of the radius all the way across the bracket. Grind the arc away flat and even using a disc sander or grinder. I like to clean up all the bottom side edges of the mount to in prep for welding too.
(Note: At the time of this install, the Lowbrow Stainless Solo Seat Hinge - Bolt On wasn’t out yet, which is why Austin ground down the coped area on the standard weld-on seat hinge. If you have a plate instead of a round back bone tube on your frame, you can now use a Bolt-On Solo Seat hinge for ease.)
Step 6: Next you will want to put all of the hardware onto the seat for mock up.
Step 7: Using some strong magnets place the spring mounts on the locations where you marked your measurements on the cross tube. Place the seat in place with pins in to see how the springs sit and the front hinge mount lines up with your measurements. Now you can step back and take a look at your seat from multiple angles. Although you marked your center lines for reference, nothing is perfect. You can nudge the seat to the left or right to line it up visually with the frame rails and gas tank. This is where your laser eye really comes into play and it is always a good idea to have a second pair of eyes for another opinion.
Step 8: After all is inspected and you approve of the seat position, its time for some quick tack welds so nothing gets burn or melted. Tack each side of the seat hinge mount and the spring mounts.
Step 9: Disassemble the seat completely. Remove the gas tank, rear wheel and fender so you have more room to weld. Clean up your marker spots and all spots you are going to need to weld.
Step 10: Now you can start welding the seat hinge mount and spring mounts. If you are Tig welding, some of the spots can be challenging to reach. Weld as much as you can and if there are a few spots you aren’t confident in doing, you can always finish welding those spots when the bike has to be taken apart and the frame needs to get prepped for powder coating and or paint.
Step 11: After everything has cooled off, attach your seat and basque in all your glory! Thats all there is to it.
*Note The small leather washers on for the spring mounts go a particular way, the smooth side goes on top.
Words By Austin Andrella - Austin Martin Originals
Photos By: Mikey Revolt