FREE SHIPPING ON ALL U.S. ORDERS OVER $39.95*

VIDEO: How To Install Gas Tank Adapter Brackets for 1986-2003 Harley-Davidson Sportsters

Gas Tank Adapter Brackets allow you to mounted a series of custom gas tanks on your 1986 - 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster motorcycle. This video shows you step-by-step how to install these brackets in place of your stock gas tank mounts so you can install one of many custom motorcycle gas tanks with no fabrication necessary! This way you could change your gas tank or go back to your stock gas tank with ease.

Check out the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel to check out all of our videos. We spend a lot of time and effort creating motorcycle how-to videos, product reviews and event coverage for your enjoyment, please let us know what you think. Click here to subscribe to the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel and stay in the know!

You can read a full transcription of this video below:

Hi, I'm Todd from Lowbrow customs. Now today we're going to show you our new gas tank adaptor kit for modern Sportsters. These will fit '86 to '03 Sportsters and enable you to put a custom style gas tank on your Sportster without any drilling or welding to your existing frame which is nice, you don't have to repaint or do anything like that. First thing we want to do is remove the gas line from the fuel valve. I like to use a nut driver instead of a screw driver, got a quarter inch nut driver here for the hose clamp. It's also a good idea to make sure that your gas is shut off if you don't have a vacuum fuel valve.

I also like to use these little pliers here to pull the line off, that way I don't get gas on myself. And there we go. I've got a quarter inch allen wrench, half inch drive socket, stock fasteners we'll have the quarter inch hex fastener. The front one on this has half inch on both sides, the fastener has been replaced. This particular gas tank that's mounted on the bike right now has our gas box tank lift kit installed. And your stock hardware from your motorcycle will work with these after brackets. If you do have a vacuum type fuel valve you'll need to remove the vacuum line from the backside of the fuel valve.

Majority of the tanks we stock will accept a 22 millimeter or a quarter inch NPT, and the majority of the valves we have in our store are going to be the non vacuum type. The vacuum line is not needed if you're going to put a different valve on as long as you're using a vented gas cap. We've got the two bolts removed, just going to pop this tank off of here. These are pretty easily identifiable; the rear one will have two different mounting locations to allow you to put different tanks on there, and the front one just has one hole, these are 3/8 16 fasteners, this one's going to go on like so, with the larger portion facing rear.

For the gas tank we have a alien center fill gas tank that we have available on our website store, and this one is going to work perfectly as long as we put the bracket with the long side facing towards the rear. You can remove the rubber grommet and the washers from your stock tank, and then you'll just push the rubber grommet into the new bracket, slide the washer that's got a step on it onto the adapter brackets and you're going to reuse those parts off your bike. I'm going to go ahead and pop those on there like so. Put your stock bolts back in.

Go ahead and put your stock fasteners back on there, we'll go ahead and snug those up. Helps if you have the right end of the wrench. We'll just try, I'll fit the tank one time real quick to make sure we have this in the right place. Notice how the new adapter brackets line up with the tabs on the gas tank. After looking at the way the adapter brackets are bolted onto the frame I think it might not be a bad idea if you grab yourself a sharpie and roll these to where you can just visibly see the hole where the threads are, because you only have so much amount of room on the tab for the head of your bolt you could always use a socket head bolt, you don't have to use a hex head. Basically put yourself a mark front and rear on those tabs then you're going to want to take the tank off. We had a center to center measurement on the threaded holes of 16 and half inches then you could go over to your tank and mark the bottom at 16 and a half inches, and then double check your marks so that you're to be sure that you're going to have room to get your fasteners into the front and rear of the tank for the brackets.

Anytime you're drilling a hole on something like this it's always a good idea to use the center punch that way the drill bit doesn't wander when you start to drill it. It's also a good idea to start with a smaller drill bit, it's easier to drill a small hole that'll get you nice and centered where your center punch was, and then move up to a larger size up to your 3/8 hole for mounting the tank. I did mention that these tank at 3/8 16 fastener it's probably a good idea to figure out what length you're going to need. I personally myself like to put some type of cushioning anytime it's a metal to metal situation even though we do have some rubber mount there.

I don't think it would be a problem to mount it directly to there, we do offer some leather washers in our store that I generally will use on a metal to metal situation. Depending on if you're going to put some cushioning under the tabs in between the new brackets, you're probably going to need a bolt that's approximately half inch, maybe three quarters of an inch long, you don't want the bolts running into the frame then you won't be able to tighten them down correctly. That's about all there is to it, thanks for watching.

Leave a Reply
  •