The video above gives you a general overview of Lowbrow Customs' WX Gas Tanks for Harley-Davidson Big Twins from 1936 - 1984. Check out all the features in detail before watching the install video below which goes step-by-step through the process of bolting a set of WX Gas Tanks on to your stock Harley-Davidson frame. These split gas tanks are a perfect fit on Shovelheads and Panheads and allow you to run a custom tank without having to modify your stock frame. You can simply unbolt your WX tanks and go back to your stock setup at any time, using basic hand tools! The slim look was inspired by Harley-Davidson WR tanks. The WR was introduced by Harley-Davidson in 1946 as a factory race bike. The WR tanks served two functions, one side as an oil tank and the other side as a fuel tank. The Lowbrow WX Gas Tanks, while having the narrowed look of the WR tanks they were inspired by, both hold fuel for your motorcycle.
Check out the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel to check out all of our videos. We spend a lot of time and effort creating motorcycle how-to videos, product reviews and event coverage for your enjoyment, please let us know what you think. Click here to subscribe to the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel and stay in the know!
You can read a full transcription of this video below:
Hi, I'm Todd from Lowbrow Customs. Today we're going to show you how easy it is to install our new WX Split Gas Tanks on this Harley-Davidson Shovelhead frame, we'll go ahead and get started. Really nicely made tanks. I know a lot of guys out there have been chopping these down for years, there's no need to do that anymore, because we have them available. Nicely made construction. Also comes with a hardware kit. Necessary fasteners to put it on your bike, and a uniquely designed rear bracket. We'll go ahead and get started and put this on first because that would be step one. Okay, you're going to use two 516”-18 bolts in the kit, the short ones. We did design this bracket so that it allows for some movement here, because not all frames are going to be exactly the same so we decided it will be best to make it a little bit smaller than needed so in case your frame is switched together, it's probably a good idea when you put this together to add some washers in between those two mounting points, so that when you tighten this down, this is not going to move side to side. You'll notice that it has a little slight kick to it, you want that to be facing up. Like so, you don't want to put it on like this. Okay?
Like I said we're going to use the two shorter 5/16”-18 bolts, I've also grabbed a couple of lock washers out of my tool box there. I have a handful of flat washers here that I'm going to use to put in between here, so when this tightens down it's all good. Whatever combination washers you may need to take the gap up, like I said previously, not every single one of this old frames is going to be the same so that's why we made it that way. I'm going to go ahead and try two washers on this side, go ahead and get this started. Good, it looks like probably if I put one more washer on the other side it should be good to go.
Okay, now, you don't want to tighten this right now because you're going to need to move this to put the tanks on, so after we get the front and rear mounts on, we'll go ahead and we'll come from the underside and tighten this two, that will be the very last step. There's that bracket installed, loosely. Due to the fact that these parts are cast parts and they are all welded on at the factory, we have so many year ranges on this particular style of frame and this gas tank mounts, not every frame maybe exactly the same for the mounting points. So although these are designed to fit this frame, they may be some custom fitting required to get them just right.
On this particular frame that we're using on this bike, someone has tapped threads in this casting. Your frame more than likely is going to be straight through. We do include this long bolt that will go through there. We're going to go ahead and get one side of the tanks on, I'm going to start with the left, it really doesn't matter which side you put on first. If you notice on this, we do have a 22mm outlet, of which we have a variety of 22mm fuel valves available on the website. I do have a Pingel petcock that I'm going to install on there.
We do have a provision on here for a crossover line, on the bottom of each tank is a fitting that looks up to hose, and we also have a provision for a vent that will connect the two tanks together at the top. This is the style of gas cap that is used on these tanks, vintage Harley style, some people call it a cam lock gas cap. We do stock this on the website. Now that I've shown you the different features on our new tank, we'll go ahead and get the left one on here. One thing I noticed is you want to make sure as you're putting the top bolt in, that this tab right here stays on this side of the bracket. If you put it like that, you're not going to be able to get the bottom bolt in.
We'll go ahead and get it fastened and start it there. Like I said normally you're going to be putting a bolt in here, that slides through the frame casting. Ours is tap, that is why I am doing it this way. Once again I'm just going to get this in here, I'm not going to fully tighten them. That will be the last step, I'll go over all the fasteners. Now that I have that on there, you can see how this is going to work on the back end. Okay, the fittings for the vent and the crossover are going to accept quarter inch fuel line, pretty much determine the length I need on the horse by trial and error method. Looks like it's approximately 2.25 inches. So, what I'm going to do here is I'm going to go ahead and put this on the tank that's not on the bike yet, make sure it's all the way on there, and then I'm going to go ahead and put my horse clamp on this side now and get it tightened down. I think it would be much easier to go ahead and tighten one of this hose clamps for the crossover vent before it's put on the bike. It does appear that we're going to be able to get up in between the tank to tighten the other side. As with any hose and hose clamp situation, you don't want to tighten it down until it starts to crush the hose because that's not what we're going to seal or anything.
You just want to tighten it till it's got a nice fit. The hose is not going to pop off of there. Now we're going to go ahead and put the other clamp on the hose. Then I'm just going to go ahead and snug it up, but not so much that it won't go over the fitting on the other tank, but this will be less tightening, all I have to do up in between the tanks when it's on the bike. I'm just going to snug that down, to the point where it still got some play. That's pretty good. Okay, I've got the hose on here, I went ahead and tightened the clamp that's on the hose to this tank already because it was a lot easier to do it on the bench. We got this one loose. We'll go ahead and get this on there. Okay, you want to introduce the horse to the fitting, and push it on like so. You'd want to be a lot more careful than I'm being with this rod tanks, and there again it's probably a good idea to go ahead and mark this up before you even get them painted to make sure everything fits correctly. You don't have all these hose length and everything all done ahead of time, so when your tanks are nicely painted and you're doing the final assembly, probably wouldn't hurt to put some masking tape or something down this edge, because you see as I was popping that on, it kind of rode over there and banged into the other tank.
A little common sense dealing with freshly painted gas tanks. Okay, I'm going to go ahead and get the top one started on this side and once again, you're probably going to have a straight through hallway, you're just going to slide the bolt in. Put the washer on each side, with a nyloc nut, lightly installed, so you get all the fasteners on then you go back over and tighten everything up. Okay, there's two tabs, one on each side on the back end of the tank like you saw earlier in the video when I was showing you the back side of the tank. The right side tab is going to go first up against the bracket, then the other one's going to overlap it. Like so. That's also going to kind of help set your line between the two tanks. We're going to go ahead and -- The black oxide fastener in the kit, is going to be the one that goes here. It's probably a good idea once you get everything all trial fit before your final tighten to put some red lock tight on this. One of the reasons I left everything loose is because at this point it's probably easier. You're going to get this on your tool, you're going to get the two tabs over that, and if you just lift up a little bit on the back of the tanks because we haven't tightened anything yet, it makes it a lot easier to get this one started, and there it goes. No problem.
Once again, right tank tab forward, left tank tab rearward. Once again I'm not going to final tighten it until I'm done. You'll notice our line is looking real nice there, nice and even. Also, another note to tell you, it's probably not a good idea to file or grind on any of the seams, on any of these tanks because that may degrade the integrity of the welding and you don't want to cause a leak because you're trying to make something look absolutely perfect and beautiful. A little white sanding is not going to hurt anything, you probably don't want to use a grinder. or an angle die grinder with a sanding disk on these seams on the tanks. Now we have top two on, rear one on. We can go ahead and put our front one, and once again see how the tanks kind of flexing now that I'm positioning where that goes. Once again, do the variations in the frames. You got to get everything to fit real nice, a little loosely and then go over everything at the end and make it tight. All right, another important reason to try outfit your tanks before you send them out for paint is because right now I can see that these tabs may need a little finessing. They may need to get bent just a little bit to get it to sit flat.
It may need to be ground just a little bit on this radius depending on where your front lower tank mount is located on your frame. There's going to be some variation. That's why it's a good idea to make everything fit before you paint your tanks. This bolt going to go through here. Flat washer on one side, underneath the head of the bolt. You got a nyloc, these are provided in the kit. We've got the front lower bolt, nut, and washers installed. Go ahead and snug those up now. Since that is a nyloc, that shouldn't come lose. Now, we do provide a nyloc for the top one also. Now we can go over and tighten everything the final time. Go ahead and tighten these down the rest of the way. We might as well hit the front one again while we're here, or we're still at the front. That should be good. Tighten down the rear one. Once again, the lock tight never hurt anybody. Now, the final thing we need to do is we need to tighten the two nuts that are holding this bracket to the frame. Like I said previously, I let them loose because I lift it up on that tank to get this one started, makes a little bit easier for these two tabs to line up to that. If you have a real short wrench like I have, that makes this job a little easier. You're just going to get up underneath the tank to put final tightening to those. You can actually see him, look down the split in the tank.
Okay, so we're going to come around the other side, and get this other last bolt tighten up, and then we'll be done. All right. I neglected to tighten the hose clamp on the vent line when I put all that, you want to make sure you get it done, but I forgot to tighten it, so I'm going to go ahead and take care of that now. I have this little trouble light that I use in the garage in the shop, and I'm going to use that underneath here so I can see where that hose clamps at without struggling anymore. There's the hose clamp right there. There we go. That's why I snugged up the hose clamp when I put it on the hose so that I'm not fiddling around underneath the tank. Turning and turning, and turning because the hose clamps are way larger that it needs to be to clamp that vent line up there.
Okay. Last thing we want to do here is connect our crossover that equalizes the gas in tanks. Whatever level one tank is at the other tank will be at the same level because of this other fitting on the bottom of each side of the tank. Now, we're going to use the other piece of quarter-inch line that we have. Same program. Go ahead and get our hose clamps started on there. Same deal. Go ahead and get your hose clamps snugged up against the host so you're not tightening and tightening on the motorcycle. Obviously, you want to leave it loosened up so that it will slide over the fitting, but tight enough so you're not fiddling around under there, and we can always reposition those once we get this hose on.
I'm going to slide those back, and I pop this on the crossover. It goes on that side, and would you look at that, the piece of hose I had left over from the other vent is absolutely perfect in length. Make sure the fitting is completely over the hose. I've actually orientated my hose clamps in a good position for me to tighten them. Nice and tight. Not so tight that you're bulging the hose all the heck. Come around this side and get this one. Okay, there you go. As simple as that. Now we're ready to put some gas in her, and fire her up, and go for a ride.