The Cole Foster Gas Tank is designed specifically for Harley-Davidson Sportsters 2007 and later. This motorcycle gas tank accepts the fuel pump, gasket and hardware from the stock tank, a quick and easy change-over which is covered in this install video. Swap out the gas tank for one with real style for an easy Saturday morning project. There are not many gas tanks for EFI (electronic fuel injection) Sportsters, and even less that improve the look of your motorcycle. This gas tank has a capacity of 3.25 gallons, plenty of fuel to get you down the road without compromising style. This is one of many custom Sportster parts available only from Lowbrow Customs. If you do not have time to watch a full video, check out our posts how we install a cole foster gas tank with step by steps guide among with images, which save your time.
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You can read a full transcription of this video below:
Todd from Lowbrow Customs here. Today we are going to show you how easy it is to change your fuel injecting gas tank, we're going to show you how to install one of our new Cole Foster gas tanks for 2007 and up EFI Harley-Davidson Sportsters. This tank holds three and one quarter gallons of gasoline. There's a hole for your fuel injection pump which you'll see here a little bit later in the video that everything is contained inside the gas tank. Then it also has a nice threaded bung for the gas cap, which will have an o-ring on there, and is 1-5/16”-12 thread, nice and compact. Nice looking new gas tank specifically designed for the fuel injected models for the stock mounting points. Let’s go ahead and get started.
First thing we want to do is go and remove the seat just have a simple flat head screwdriver here. You've probably had the seat off your bike at one time or another, no big mystery going on here. You haven't had the seat off one of these new bikes, there is a knob right about here and there's a tab here. What you want to do is when you lift up the back you're just going to push it forward that releases it from the knob see there's a little thing right there and there's a knob here on the motorcycle. Okay got two fasteners holding the gas tank to the frame one on the rear and one on the front, go ahead and take this one off.
Generally, these will have lock nuts on them so that when you tighten it it doesn't come loose, like this one does. There is a rear one and the front one has a socket head and I like to use my offset wrench on gas tanks it keeps me away from the fasteners.
Remove this one which is generally aren't under any stress or pressure so it is going to pop right off. Right now that we've got the front and the rear mounting bolts off the gas tank we have three other things to disconnect before we can remove the tank. There's a quick disconnect fitting on the fuel pump itself that connects to the ignition module very easy to remove, it's just a push up, pull down. There's an anti-vapor valve line and there is the electrical going to the fuel pump. This is your plug that energizes the fuel pump simply push this tab down and disconnect it. Right here's the tab that you're going to push on, real simple, couple zippy ties here I'm going to go ahead and cut off.
Thanks to that connection right there. This is your fuel pump underneath the tank. This is your anti-vapor valve which is connected to a fitting on the tank right that just pulls off like so right there. Here's your quick disconnect, you're going to push up and it's going to pop right out like so, simple push and pull. Okay, now everything's all removed from the gas tank for in order to remove it the motorcycle, lift it carefully off. All right, the next thing we need to do is remove the fuel pump from the gas tank. Now, there really isn't any good way to drain this tank.
When I used to work at the Harley shop basically I would hook the computer up to the motorcycle and I would go to a function that tests the fuel pump. I would click on and it would continually run the pump. I had a spare fitting that looked like this that I cut the end off of that I would put into a gas can. I click that on I'd energize the fuel pump and drain the tank. Since we don't have a computer, we're not a Harley motorcycle dealership, I'm going to show you the way I learned how to do it.
Basically we're just going to flip the tank over, yes, there is gas in it make sure your cap is tight. There is your fuel pump module, turn it around so we can get to it, there's going to be five screws in here that we're going to need to be removed. I use a little common sense here, obviously if you see gas leaking out the other side it's probably not the best plan of action you're going to have to drain the tank. Okay, now we're now going to go ahead and remove these five Torx head screws out of the fuel pump. They're going to be a T-25 Torx Bit.
Now the fuel pump will just come right out of the tank, actually the fuel pump, this filter screen, the regulator, the whole mess is in here. You got to fiddle with it a little bit to get it to come out of there. They got the hose clamps hanging up on the edge of that hole, there you go. When you get to this point you're going to need to angle it like so just to ted and there you have it. This is your pump, filter screen, regulator and also your low fuel is connected to this so when your fuel gets low the light comes on your speedometer. That's basically what it looks like also worth noting, there’s your low fuel.
See there's this a gasket on here, I have changed these out before at the shop and not change the gasket. You might want to take a good look at it make sure it's in good shape, make sure it hasn't pulled out of the groove that it sits in. If I'm not going to remove this one for the video but you'll see that it's flat on both sides and it's got these rounded portions which holds it in this groove so you just want to make sure it's in good shape and that it's completely seated in the groove before you install your pump assembly back into your new tank.
Now, we'll go ahead and introduce the fuel pump to the new tank, again pretty simple. Let’s try going the right way around then you're going to angle it slightly right there at the beginning and it just drops into place. Get your holes lined up. Go ahead and start your screws as with anything like this it has a gasket that is sealing a fluid you don't want to put one screw in and tighten all the way up; you want to get all your screws started and then go back over it. I generally like to just run them down in there a little bit not all the way. The last three screws here; see how it has some quite a bit of movement there so that's the reason for not tightening any the first screws I put in.
If you are putting something together and it has threaded holes with a plate like this and while you're screwing something just doesn't feel right, it's probably a good idea to stop, regroup and figure out what the issue is. You don't want to just cram a screw into a hole hoping it's going to work.
Now I’ve got all five of my screws in, I'm going to go ahead and snug them down nice and even not tightening any one all the way yet I'm just pulling them all down a little at a time.
Now there is a factory torque spec on this, you can refer to your service manual for that it is going to be inch-pounds, it’s not going to be foot-pounds. If you were to set your torque wrench to foot-pounds and torque these small Torx head screws you're probably going to strip the threads on the tank. Just pay careful attentions to that pull it down evenly, tightly.
Do your torque, you're good to go, you're ready to put it back on the motorcycle. So now that I've got my fuel pump module re-assembled onto the new tank, we'll go ahead and install the tank back onto the motorcycle. Once again, the brackets on here are designed for this style of bike, so it should go on with no issues.
One thing worth noting is the coil bracket is also in conjunction with the front tank bracket. I've noticed a lot of times if you're not paying attention when you go to slide the front tabs of the tank over the coil bracket, it will move away. There's like a square that this locates on, on the frame. So just pay attention to that when you're putting the tank on, that your coil is located correctly.
There it goes, right on, no problem; it's on there loosely. We can go ahead and put our bolts back in. Longer one goes on the front, shorter one on the rear. Rear one's on, we're going to get the front one on. We just have to lift up on this a little bit, you get it to go through the hole. There she goes.
All right. Tank's back on. Go ahead and tighten the front and rear fasteners.
Okay. Last thing we need to do is reconnect our fuel pump electrical, and our quick disconnect fitting. Okay, we're going to go ahead and plug in our electrical connector for the fuel pump. You want to make sure you've got it routed underneath the quick disconnect and spark plug wire. Then you may notice there is some locating pins on here. You can only plug this in one way around, you can't screw this up. You're going to put that together. As soon as this reaches that little nub, you'll hear an audible little click. Hear it? There goes a little click. We'll do it one more time. That tells you that it is securely connected together, and then we'll go ahead and -- This is very simple. This is your line once again going to your induction module.
We're going to introduce that to the hole, push this up, and it will pop down. Give it a little tug, make sure it is completely plugged in and it's not going to pop off.
The gas tank does come with this cap; it is vented. It has an O-ring for sealing. We do have some different caps available that are going to have the same threads on them, that will also work with this tank. We have a couple different styles on those, and a couple different finishes, and you can see a video for those right here. At this point you could fill up your tank, put your cap on and go for a ride.