Part 4 - Assembly - In this How to video, Todd walks you through the installation on a S&S Cycles Hooligan 1200cc conversion kit with oversized cams on a 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 883cc engine. These kits work on 2000-2018 Harley-Davidson Sportsters and can be installed on your motor with in a day spent in the garage. This episode covers installation of both rocker boxes and how to properly install your manifold onto your engine. If you missed part one the disassembly part two of assembly or part three of assmebly of this series be sure to watch those first. These kits work on 2000-2018 Harley-Davidson Sportsters and come in silver or black.
So, break out the tool box and follow along. See how "There's no big mystery going on in there!" This step by step and does not skip anything, and will help you understand how easy it is to install this kit, beef up your motor and add some real horsepower to it.
Note: Disregard the cam portion of this video if you are only doing a big bore conversion kit install.
Check out the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel to check out all of our videos. We spend a lot of time and effort creating motorcycle how-to videos, product reviews and event coverage for your enjoyment, please let us know what you think. Click here to subscribe to the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel and stay in the know!
00:01 - Part 4 the finale!
00:29 - Reinstalling the pushrods. What the colors on the pushrods mean?
00:49 - Put the bike in gear and rotate the engine so the pushrods are at their lowest point.
01:33 - New gaskets. Always use new gaskets!
01:52 - Installing the front rocker box. Pay attention to your rocker arms and that your bolts are setting the gasket correctly.
02:59 - Install 3 smaller hex head bolts.
04:06 - Install the smaller 2 allen bolts.
04:25 - Start with the four large bolts tightening them evenly so the rocker box goes down a little at a time.
05:33 - Snug up the other fasteners. 3 hex and 2 allen bolts.
06:35 - Torque the 9 bolts accordingly starting with the 4 large bolts, 3 hex and then 2 allen.
08:04 - Install gaskets onto rocker box, center and the outside ring, they just rest inside the grooves.
08:43 - Install middle rocker box ring, make sure breather valve is on the intake side.
09:00 - Install the gasket on the outer groove of the middle rocker box ring.
09:29 - Installing the top lid of the rocker box.
11:10 - Make sure the top lid, middle ringer and rocker box are even on all sides before tightening the lid down evenly.
14:09 - Alright let's do it again but this time on the rear cylinder and Todd will walk you through every step again. There are a few small things to note with the rear that you didn't have to do with the front. *Note before starting this process have the pushrods in the rear cylinder and rotate the engine to their lowest point then remove the pushrods -explanation at 16:02.
14:21 - Put on the gasket.
14:25 - Then put the rocker box on only have two large bolts on facing the right side of the bike.
14:47 - Doh!? See what happens when you dont keep an eye on your rocker arms! 15:05 - Install the pushrods in the pushrod tubes one at a time by lifting up the rocker box on each side. Note the colors and where they go.
15:45 - Install the other two larger fasteners on the left side of the rear rocker box. 16:02 - *Forgot to mention note above*
16:30 - install the 3 hex head and 2 small allen bolts onto rocker and lower the rocker box down evenly.
21:28 - Torque the 9 bolts starting with the 4 larger bolts, then the 3 hex followed by the 2 allen head bolts.
24:43 - Install the 2 gaskets on the rocker box, center and the outside ring making sure they are set in the grooves correctly.
25:08 - Install the middle ring make sure the breather valve is installed on the intake side. This one can be tricky because its such a tight area and little clearance. Note how Todd puts the left corner in first and how it falls into place.
25:34 - Install last gasket on outside grooves of the middle ring.
26:05 - The hardest part Installing the top lid on the rear rocker box. Note again how Todd starts with the right side, lifts up and shifts forward and back ever so slightly to get to the right position.
27:19 - Check alignment of rocker box, middle ring and top lid before tightening the 4 lid bolts completely.
29:49 - And there you have it a complete new S&S Cycles 1200 Hooligan kit install. 30:31 - Install some new Spark Plugs.
32:17 - How to change out gaskets on the manifold.
34:22 - Installing the manifold correctly onto the engine. What to do to make sure the manifold ends up straight on the motor.
42:07 - Thats all folks! WHOOOO! Well the bikes not done yet. We will have more videos coming with this motorcycle and we promise once its done you will see it running!
You can read the full transcription for this video here:
Okay. Let's get going here. All right, the first thing we want to do is go ahead and put our pushrod tubes back, pushrod tubes. We're going to put our pushrods back in.
They are color-coded. We talked about that earlier, and we'll talk about it again. Pink's going to be exhaust, brown is going to be intake. You may notice the exhaust is just a little bit longer, so you don't want to mix those up. I'm just going to drop those in the hole like so. Okay, now we're going to go ahead and rotate the engine so that both of those are at their lowest point, similar to what we did when we disassembled it.
We got to have it in gear. Second gear seems to work just fine for this job. We're going to just rotate it. Oh, there's one going up. Oh, she's going down. That's probably it right there, but we'll go around again just for the hell of it. There's one coming up, there's another one coming up. There she's coming down. That's probably the lowest point they're going to be at for putting the rocker box.
New gasket, nice gaskets, James gaskets. Metal with print-o-seal. That'll work better than the stock gasket. Notice she's just hanging around there, and that's why we will leave these four bolts in here so that as we lower it down over there, we want to hold this. You see how these just flop around there? If you put it on like that, with those up, this is going to hit that, and it's not going to go down right.
You just want to rock those up so that the pushrods are going to go in these little things here. We'll just set her up over there and get those holes on the gasket in the right place. Oh, she's weird now. There we go. Then go ahead and get these four bolts started. If you want to make sure your gasket's good, you can just lift her up a little bit, look and go, "Yes, good on that side."
I can see the edge of it over, we're in the holes. You could see that the rocker's hitting the top of the valve stem and the other parts and the pushrod tube thingy. Great, then you got your three hex heads. One there, one right there, and one in the middle right here. We'll go ahead and just run those down a little bit there. That one's hard to get to.
You may have noticed now the rocker box is up, and it doesn't really want to go down because the rocker shafts are riding on the pushrods, and the lifters are holding it up. What we'll do after we get all our fasteners in is we'll go ahead and tighten these four down, going across, in a cross pattern and pull it down evenly. That'll push the lifters down, hence the reason for rotating the engine so that they're both low, at their lowest point because if we were doing this right now and that one was up there, this part of the rocker box would be sticking way up.
We've got all our fasteners in there now, we'll go ahead and start snugging this up, [background noise] evenly. Now, we're coming down there, we'll go to the other side and start tightening those. That's not the ratchet I like, [background noise] I like this one better. All right, she's starting to meet the surface there like the other side. I'm going to go back over here and do this one. Then we'll come back over her and do this one. Then we'll do this one and then this one. I can feel on this side, she's all the way down. That one's all the way down. Go ahead and snug up our other fasteners here.
Then the three hex heads. That one's just spinning down. That one's just going right all the way down, yes. Sometimes you get a little resistance on them, sometimes you don't. Since all the other ones are already down, these are going easy, so I'm just doing it by hand. Now that all the fasteners are all the way down, we'll go ahead and torque
them. I got our handy-dandy torque wrench. On the 5/16s fasteners, torque spec 15 to 18, on the quarter-inch ones, they are 10 to 13. We'll go ahead and we'll talk torque the little ones first, 10 to 13.
I'm going to leave those two for last. Now, we'll go ahead and do the other ones, the 5/16s.
You may remember from my other rocker box gasket leak video, the other ones are inch-pounds, so we're going to talk about hand. We're going to use the old calibrated
elbow. Click. Click. Inch-pounds, done. Now, we're going to go ahead and install our gaskets. There's two gaskets, one here, one here. Don't forget that middle one or she'll leak like a sieve. They just rest on there, sometimes they don't sit in the groove very good. This one goes here.
That one sit in there pretty nice. There we go. We're just going to go around the other side, make sure she's sitting down in that little lip. All right. Looks good. Now, we go ahead and put our middle rocker box on there. Once again, we've already installed the breather valve by pulling it through, we can plainly see that it's all the way in the hold. Put your middle one on, and then your top, making sure it's in the groove.
Now, what we want to do is we want to make this face even because you can do it like that, but that's not right. We'll go around the other side and we'll show you how we even that up there. We're ready to put our lid on. That's backwards because we have two holes here, here, here. The two here are closer together so it goes this way. We'll check
our middle gaskets in there. Go ahead and get that up on there like so, checking to make sure all those are even.
The gasket kit, you get your choice, paper or metal? I'm going to use the paper ones. Colony fasteners going with our chromium theme on the fasteners. Wait a minute, that's an old one. Nevermind. Here we go. Finally, the other two from the other side.
Now, you want to move that centerpiece so that these are even right here. You want to get this line even right here, and you want this to be pretty much even and this one pretty much even. We'll go back. We've got those all even. We check the other side before we go ahead and final-tighten those down and that looks pretty good. We got all three of those even, we got this even, we're ready to tighten them down the rest of the way.
I'm drawing these down evenly. I'm not going to crank one side all the way down and then do the other side.
I go over them a couple of times so that I'm bringing them even, and you can feel when they're tight. I'm not really sure what the torque spec is on this. This is another calibrated elbow job. When you've done it a bunch of times, you know how tight they need to be. If you want to refer to the torque spec, that's fine. I don't really think that's necessary on these.
I go to go back over them, one last time on these two and I think we got her. Yes, that's good. I can feel it, beautiful. Nice and even. It's not the end of the world if it's not perfect, but it just looks bad if it's sticking out funny on one side or the other. There you have it on that one. Now, we're ready to go ahead and do the same thing here. All right, we're going to go ahead and put the rear rocker box on.
There's a couple of other notes on this rear one, a little bit different in the front. There's a lot less clearance here where you can get to all this. What we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and put the gasket on first, and then we're going to put the rocker box on, and I've taken two of the fasteners out because it's hard to get it in there with them in there. She's a tight fit.
We'll get those two in the right place. Look at that. See, that's exactly what I was talking about earlier. Look how my rocker arms are all weirded out. That'll never work. There we go. That's better. Now, what we're going to do is we're going to put the pushrod tubes in now because it's much easier to do it that way because there's so little clearance here that we wouldn't have been able to get the rocker box in with the pushrod tubes.
What you're going to do is you don't have the bolts in at all. You're going to just lift this up and drop it down in there like so, same for the other one like so. Once again, checking that. There we go. We'll go ahead and get those two started. All good. Go ahead and put our fasteners on the other side. All right. I forgot to mention that I put the pushrod tubes in initially without the rocker box, and then I rotated the engine to be sure that both the pushrods were at their lowest point.
Then I went ahead and put my gasket rocker box on and then I dropped the pushrod tubes down in the hole. I forgot to tell you that's the way I was doing it. I did rotate the engine to the correct position, so now we're at that point in time where we're starting to put all our of our fasteners in, and our pushrods are at their lowest point. Once again, the three little ones.
The rear one is a little more chAllenging, and you'll see here when we go to put the top lid on and the middle piece, we'll probably will be beeping some swearing out.
We've got all our fasteners in. We'll go ahead and start drawing her down. Once again going side to side, bringing it down even.
The wrench only works so far on this side till you start running into the rocker box. It works fine on this side because you're wide open here.
Coming down. Go ahead and snug down the other side.
I think it keeps hitting that wire, and that's making it change sides. There we go.
We've got all four or 5/16s fasteners snugged down.
Then there's that one.
This one's a little harder to get to. That's why I'm using a quarter-inch ratchet. Obviously, a three-eighths ratchet's is not going to fit in there, but once she's all the way down, we'll be able to get the torque wrench in there for the initial tightening.
Last but not least, the two-socket heads, one on each end on this side.
You can't get anything on that one. I used a long ball-end Allen to get on that one. If you don't have one, you can use a regular Allen wrench to get that one down. All fasteners in, all snugged up, time to torque her. Once again, we're going to go 15 to 18 on the 5/16s and 10 to 13 on the quarters.
Oops. I only had her at 15, let's bump her up and do it again, not a problem. She was almost all the way there anyway. It's only a couple of pounds, but we'll just go ahead and do it again. We got a little turn out of that one. I am going to the end of the torque spec. We did that one, that one, and finally, this one. There we go. I was going to the top of the spec. I wanted to be at 18. Now, we're going to drop her down to 13. There's 10, 12, 13. We are going to need another socket. We'll use the deep socket on this one. Last but not least, the sneaky one in here
I'm not getting a whole lot of turn out of this. I think we're just about there. One more time.
There she goes. We didn't have that one snugged down as hard as the other ones because it's so hard to get to. Then finally, the other two, the final two. On this one, I don't like to use the ball-end for the final tightening. I'm going to just grab a regular Allen wrench. That should do it. Once again, don't forget your middle gasket. Making sure it's in the groove. Now comes the fun part. Breather valve facing forward.
Install the new one. See if she's a tight one. Look at that. There she goes right on there. Sometimes that ring can be a real pain going on and off on the rear. You can plainly see there's not much room. I remember one of the comments when we fixed the rocker box leak the last time on the video, they're like, "Dohhh! You didn't show the hard one, the back one."
There you go. Everything looks good with our gaskets. Maybe I was bragging too much. Let's see if the top goes on easy. Then when you find that just-right combination, she goes in. I'm not taking it back off to show you that again. Get your four fasteners in the top. Don't forget your little paper washers. There goes another nice awesome clearance problem there, Mr. Harley Davidson.
We still got our ball-end Allen. We'll be utilizing that on the back one because she's a difficult-to-get-to with the frames right in the road. Once again, checking our alignment. I'm just bringing these down, but I'm not snugging them up yet because I want to double-check on the other side that I'm happy with the way this is lined up. Before it gets tight, you could still wiggle that middle one around a little bit.
That looks pretty good right there. We'll go ahead and snug these all the way down to the bottom and then we'll go back to the other side. Then you can see it's pulling. See when she's done, it's tight. Once again, I'm going to gradually pull it down a little at a time. Maybe a regular Allen wrench on this, then we better feel for how tight it is and using that really long ball-end. There you have it. She's looking pretty good now, looking like a motor again.
We'll go ahead and show you changing the intake manifold gaskets, which is very important. That top-end kit did not come with those. Anytime, if you've got that manifold off, it's a good idea to put new gaskets on there. You don't want an intake leak, that'll give you a lean running condition that's very hard to chase down. We'll show you the trick on getting it on there and getting it lined up for the rest of the parts to go on.
Before we get the manifold on, we're going to go ahead and throw a new set of spark plugs in there. We stock auto lights. The proper gap for this engine is 40,000s. I can see that's not 40,000s just by looking at it. We got this handy-dandy little tool here, courtesy of my awesome cameraman, he had this hanging on his belt. With this particular tool, you're just going to slide it up to the one choice.
Actually, you can bend it up a little to get there. You're going to get it to the 40,000s. I'm using two feeler gauges here, a 35 and a five. There she is, 40,000s. We already got this one when you weren't looking. 40,000s. Always use a little dab NICs on your new plugs on the threads, don't put it on the electrodes. Make sure you get some all over your hand because that's always fun. That'll keep the plug from galling in the cylinder head.
Even though the first time we go to take these out, they'll be coming up anyway. It's just a good practice. Put a little NICs on there. I couldn't find my 11/16 spark plug wrench, so we're just going to use this wrench. Don't overdo it on your plugs. You need them to be tight, but don't crank them till you rip the threads out of the cylinder heads. There we go. The spark plug is installed.
There's our manifold. Look at those little gaskets. Those don't look very happy. Now here's our new gaskets. You'll notice where I'll take one off, then you'll see. I'll show you, one sides beveled, the other side is not. The beveled side is going to face that bevel on there when they go back together. Let's not mix up the old ones and the new ones. That's an old one. These are the new ones.
I'm just going to pop it off of there, just push-fit like so. When we come back from-- we're going to go clean this thing off because it's grungy, but they're going to go back on the same way they came off. We'll go ahead and put those the way they came off, so we don't have to even think about it when we come back. We're going to have the part number up. This one's going to go here like that.
Let's go get this part-- We'll give it a quick bath, scrub it down. It's grungy. We'll get those seals on there. All right, we got it cleaned up a little better than it was before. Part number faces down. When it's on the engine, it's like this. One thing I didn't tell you a minute ago is these are marked front and rear. There's a little F on the front one and an R are on the rear one, imagine that.
Basically, you're just going to put your gasket on there. This one says R. You're just going to slide it on like so. See how that moves. I'll show you that in a sec here. You can just put this on first, either way, it doesn't matter. The gasket on, bevel facing. We'll show you that one more time. That part's beveled, that part's beveled. That goes on first. Flat side faces up. You'll notice these are all wonky donkey. We'll go put it on the engine then it'll make better sense.
We're ready to get our manifold installed. I like to put just a little dab of grease on the seals, like so. You see you've got these two slots on the opposite side and then this side gets the ball. You've got these two studs already installed in the cylinder heads. These are going to slide over that as you introduce the manifold to the cylinder heads, like so. Get her up in there like that.
That one, there she goes. You just want to go ahead and line up the other holes for the socket head fasteners. It's a tricky job. That son of a gun. There she goes. You got to get it all the way in the hole before it's going to start going in there. Get those in any way you can. Get both of your socket head ones started. I just put a little tiny bit of lube on the threads on those because they were drier than a popcorn fart. You want to position this.
Basically, this plane here has to be level with when you put the carb and the backing plate on. What we're going to do is we're just going to snug these down by hand. We're not going to final tighten them at this point. You'll see that this can move until it's completely tightened. You don't want to completely tighten it until you have gasket, carb, backing plate, all lines it all up.
What I usually do is I put those parts on temporarily and then I take them back off to tighten it. That's the correct way to do it because if you tighten this now, you may get your carb on and find out that when you go to put this on, your carburetor is up or down just a little bit. You want everything to fit nicely. We do need to snug up the other bolts a little bit with a half-inch wrench.
That's pushing the seals up against the head. That's what forms the seal. They're snugged up. I got the gasket installed on the manifold, we'll just go ahead and maybe tip a little bit of grease on this to get it to slide in there. Pop your carb on, making sure it's fully seated in the manifold and then straighten it because you can see if you can turn it this way, you can turn it that way.
All right, so we got our carb on there. We're going to utilize a gas box support bracket to get our alignment done. You can also use your stock backing plate. If we hold that up there we can say, "Oh my gosh, we don't even have to put the screws in the carb." We can see that the carb right now is too low. What you'll do is you'll just line it up. This is flat against there, and these are going to sit flat against that.
We could actually put a couple of breather bolts in there to aid in this job. These are Lowbrow Customs breather bolts. We will be using this on this project. I'm sure we already went over this a million times, but we'll do it again because we're doing this. See how it also is pushing the carb onto the manifold. You're going to move this so that the holes all line up nicely.
There's a little bit of play in the bracket but you can see now that this is flat up against the face of the carb, these are lining up. We don't have to tighten this stuff all the way down, but we can. See, it's actually moving it up a little more again. Now, the manifold is positioned correctly on the cylinder heads so that we can tighten it down. You can sneak in here with your ball in and snug those up.
The carb will be coming back off, but that's okay. We're just going to snug up those manifold bolts and then we'll go around the other side and tighten the half-inch ones. I started to say that anytime you are using an aftermarket air cleaner, you must have a support bracket with a CB carburetor because it's spigot-mounted. You saw we just push-fitted onto the manifold. If you didn't have a support bracket, there wouldn't be anything holding the carburetor on. Essentially, your carb could possibly fall right off your motorcycle, and that would suck.
You're going to go ahead and tighten those securely. What we're doing is, we're forming a seal with those new gaskets we put on there. Nice and tight. It's probably tight enough now. We'll go ahead and see if we can snug these just a little bit more. There we go. Then what we can do is, we can pop the carb off to tighten those other ones completely. There you have it. Manifolds installed.
We just need to tighten those other two completely. They're very difficult to get to with the carb on there unless-- I used to have a ball-end in a 3/8 drive where I could use my ratchet and just go down in there and crank them tight. It's not really that big of a deal. We do have some more work to do on this job here, so it's not a big deal to just pop this back off of there to fully tighten those.
Once again, stock backing plate. It would be a lot more difficult to get to those two bolts if you had the stock backing plate, but who uses the stock backing plates? Take your carb back off. Here's an Allen wrench I modified for this job. There's a few different ways to do this. You can see I've cut that off of the Whizzer wheel. Then you can get in there, maybe. Make sure that's fully engaged.
Get your cutoff wrench in there. There we go now. Now she's tight. You want to make sure all four of those fasteners are nice and tight. Now you can see that our manifold is lined up, so when we go to finish our final assembly, everything will fit perfectly. All right, gang, that concludes our S&S hooligan kit installation. I know what you're thinking, we're not done yet. Yes, we do have a little ways to go. We do have some future plans for this little project here. Stay tuned for some other videos on some other stuff we're going be doing with the same motorcycle. When she's all done at the end, we'll show you some video of this fine engine running and ripping around town. Hope you enjoyed. Whooo.