Straton Springers: Vintage Harley Style Springer Front Ends For Custom Motorcycles

INSTALLING A SPRINGER FRONT END HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER

If you're building a chopper or custom motorcycle, few parts make a bigger visual impact than a springer front end. The classic look of a vintage Harley-style springer instantly transforms a motorcycle, but installation can be intimidating.

However, that has changed.

In this guide, we cover the features that make the Straton Springer the easiest option for anyone wanting to build a chopper.

Lowbrow Customs Straton Springer 24" (6 over STD), with 21" ribbed Spool Hub Wheel, Buckhorns, on a Lowbrow Shovelhead Hardtail. Lookin' killer!

We also walk through the installation, step-by-step, of the Lowbrow Customs Straton Springer.

We perform the installation on a Gasbox Full Frame as well as a stock, swingarm Evo Sportster frame so you can follow along in your garage.

The installation on a four-speed Harley Big Twin frame (Shovelhead, Panhead, Knucklehead) is the exact same as on the Gasbox Full Frame.

Tim with a 24" Straton Springer (+6" over standard length)

WHAT MAKES STRATON SPRINGERS DIFFERENT?

The Straton Springer by Lowbrow Customs is inspired by Harley-Davidson springer front ends of the 1940s, but it's been modernized where it matters. While it keeps the timeless antique styling, several improvements make installation cleaner, easier, and more builder-friendly.

Some standout features include:.

• Direct, bolt-on fit for Gasbox Full Frames, four-speed Harley-Davidson frames (Shovelhead, Panhead, Knucklehead), and stock Evo Sportster (1986-2003) frames
• Designed for modern 1-inch Timken tapered bearings
• Vintage looking, OEM-style Top Tree Included
• Clean, vintage-inspired hardware throughout
• Single castle nut axle design for safety as well as vintage styling
• Mirror-image rockers for easy wheel spacing
• Built-in brake stay for disc brake compatibility
  

For anyone building a garage chopper, these details save time while maintaining the traditional look.

The latest Sportster Project with 24" Straton Springer (+6" over standard length) that bolts directly on. 

WHAT BIKES DOES THE STRATON SPRINGER FIT?

One of the biggest advantages of the Straton Springer is that it's designed specifically for:

• Gasbox Big Twin & Sportster Full Frames
  
• 4-speed Harley-Davidson Big Twin Frames (Shovelhead, Panhead, Knucklehead)
• Stock Evo Sportster Frames 1986-2003
  
• Custom Frames With A 4-Speed Harley Big Twin Style Neck

Because these frames share the same neck dimensions, we designed the Straton Springer to bolt directly to these necks using Timken-style tapered bearings. Lowbrow has several high quality neck bearing options available at three different price levels: Timken USA-made, Koyo Japanese-made, or Cycle Standard High Quality Imported neck bearings).

The Straton Springer upgrade to use tapered bearings instead of loose ball bearings totally eliminates complicated machining of top adjuster nuts or custom stem modifications as found on original, vintage Harley and other aftermarket springer front ends.

Even better, each springer includes stem spacers that allow builders to adapt the springer to additional models and frames that accept 1" stems.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT SPRINGER LENGTH

One of the most common questions builders ask is: "How long of a springer do I need?" Though building chopper is about style and the builders preference, we highly suggest you take rake and trail into account when picking a springer.

We have another great blog article Rake and Trail 101 that can help you determine the proper length you will need for your specific project.

Lowbrow Customs offers Straton Springers in multiple lengths:

• 16" = -2" Under STD
• 18" = Standard Length (STD)
• 20" = +2" Over STD
• 22" = +4" Over STD
• 24" = +6" Over STD

Springers are measured from:

• The underside of the lower tree (where the stem is welded)
• To the centerline of the axle

Measure from the underside of the rear leg tree where the stem is welded, to the center of the axle. This is how to get an accurate measurement of the length of a springer front end. Understanding this will help you best determine what Straton Springer is best fit for your project.

Taking measurements on your own build before ordering ensures the front end delivers the stance you're after without guessing.

STRATON FEATURES THAT MAKE INSTALLATION EASIER

Traditional springers often require extra fabrication. The Straton Springer was engineered to eliminate many of those headaches.

The stem was made with the right dimensions and we include the proper adjuster nut to utilize Timken-style 1" bearings.

Included with each and every Straton Springer are spacers that can be used on the bottom or top of the stem if you are needing a little more clearance between the bearings, neck cups or frame during installation.

Mirrored rockers allow for easier mounting of wheels and making spacers.

MIRRORED ROCKERS

Older Harley springers used offset rockers for drum brakes, which often complicates wheel spacing on custom builds that may not have a front brake. Also, these offset rockers can really complicate things when trying to convert a springer to run a disc brake.

The mirrored rockers on the Straton Springer simplify:

• Axle Spacer Fabrication
• Running A Spool Wheel
• Disc Brake Conversions
• Wheel Centering

This alone takes out a lot of the guesswork, and makes the front end much easier to install for anyone wanting to run a springer front end.

One piece axle with a hex end on one side and a castle nut with a drilled out hole for a cotter pin on the other.

CLEANER & SAFER AXLE DESIGN

Instead of two threaded axles with large bulbous acorn nuts sticking out on both sides, the Straton Springer keeps things classy with:

• Hex one-piece style axle design
• Single castle nut
• Cotter pin retention
• Over all cleaner vintage appearance

While more expensive to machine this way, we feel it dramatically improves the finished look of the motorcycle.

More importantly, our axle is far safer. Instead of two nuts that can simply loosen or fall off, our axle features a hex head, with a castle nut on the other end. The axle is drilled, and cotter pin supplied, so you can properly pin the axle nut once tightened. This is mechanical insurance, ensuring that your axle nut simply cannot loosen up and become a problem.

Some additional featuers on the Straton Springer, Built-n Brake stay, Front fender mounts, Rounded Acorn Cap nuts, and Zerk fittings on the rockers, as well as between the upper and lower springs.

BUILT-IN BRAKE STAY MOUNT

Builders planning to run a front brake don't need to fabricate additional tabs.

The rear leg already includes a welded brake stay that accepts a disc brake setup, saving fabrication time while keeping the installation clean. This allows a builder to add a custom brake caliper along with the necessary brake caliper bracket with ease.

Welded on brake stay tab to help mount disc brake.

BOLT ON FITMENT WITH TIMKEN BEARINGS

We've eliminated the extra work that typically comes with installing a vintage-style springer front end on most Harley-Davidson motorcycles.

Traditional vintage springers require loose ball bearings and a large captive bearing adjuster nut. On most newer Harley-Davidson frames, this usually means machining parts to make everything fit properly.

Straton bearing adjuster nut.

The Straton Springer is different. It includes a custom bearing adjuster nut designed to work with Timken-style bearings, allowing it to fit most newer Harley-Davidson frames without any machining or modifications.

Lowbrow has several high quality neck bearing options available at three different price levels: Timken USA-made, Koyo Japanese-made, or Cycle Standard High Quality Imported neck bearings).

We did all the figuring out, so you don't have to!

STANCE CHECK: PHOTO COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT LENGTH STRATON SPRINGERS ON ROLLING CHASSIS

We figured the best way to show off the different length Straton Springers was to take the time to install them on the various different frames. This very clearly shows the differences in ride height and style.

The wheels on all rolling chassis below are a 16" rear with a Shinko Classic 240 Tire and a 21" front wheel with a Shinko Super Classic 270 3.00 x 21" Tire.

RIGID SHOVELHEAD / PANHEAD / KNUCKLEHEAD

This chassis is an OEM Harley Shovelhead swingarm frame that was hardtailed using a Lowbrow Hardtail for 1958-1984 Harley Panheads & Shovelheads. This hardtail is designed to match an OEM Panhead factory rigid frame, so it is representative of what you could expect on an OEM-style rigid Knucklehead or Panhead frame as well.

GASBOX 1986-2003 SPORTSTER FULL FRAME - STANDARD NECK HEIGHT

This chassis is a Gasbox Full Frame for 1986-2003 Sportsters, standard neck height. These frames are also available with a +3" neck height, which is shown separately in the next section below, as this requires a longer front end.

GASBOX 1986-2003 SPORTSTER FULL FRAME - +3" NECK HEIGHT

This chassis is a Gasbox Full Frame for 1986-2003 Sportsters, with a +3" neck height.  These frames are also available with a standard neck height, which is shown separately in the section above, as the standard neck height can utilize a shorter front end.

GASBOX 1936-1999 BIG TWIN FULL FRAME - STANDARD NECK HEIGHT

This chassis is a Gasbox Full Frame for 1936-1999 Big Twins, standard neck height. These frames are also available with a +3" neck height, which is shown separately in the next section below, as this requires a longer front end.

GASBOX 1936-1999 BIG TWIN FULL FRAME - +3" NECK HEIGHT

This chassis is a Gasbox Full Frame for 1936-1999 Big Twins, with a +3" neck height.  These frames are also available with a standard neck height, which is shown separately in the section above, as the standard neck height can utilize a shorter front end.

GASBOX 2004-UP SPORTSTER FULL FRAME - STANDARD NECK HEIGHT

This chassis is a Gasbox 2004-up Sportster Full Frame, standard neck height. We still need to add photos of the +3" neck height frame, which are coming soon. 

WATCH VIDEO: HOW TO INSTALL A STRATON SPRINGER ON GASBOX FULL FRAME & BIG TWIN HARLEY 4-SPEED

Learn how to install the Lowbrow Customs Straton Springer on Gasbox Big Twin Full Frame or 4-speed Harley Davidson Big Twin frame with this complete step-by-step guide.

Tim walks through the Straton Springer's unique features, explains how to measure for the correct length, and demonstrates a true bolt-on installation using modern Timken-style tapered bearings.

The Straton Springer eliminates any the machine work or loose-ball bearing conversions common with installing traditional antique-style springers. Tim also shares a simple fork stop modification to help protect your paint and improve handlebar clearance. If you were thinking about snagging a Straton Springer this is an essential video to show you jsut how easy it is to install.

Straton 24" Springer (+6" over STD) on a Gasbox 66-03 Sportster full frame.

INSTALLING A STRATON SPRINGER ON A GASBOX FULL FRAME OR 4-SPEED HARLEY BIG TWIN FRAME: STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

Installing a Straton Springer on a Gasbox Full Frame is a simple bolt-on process when you have the correct parts. Follow these steps for a smooth installation. We are installing a 24" Straton Springer (+6" over) on on a Gasbox 86-03 Sportster Full Frame.

Regardless what size Straton Springer you choose or which ever Gasbox Full Frame you are using, Big Twin or Sportster this process will be the same.

It is also the exact same process on a 4-speed Harley Big Twin frame (such as Shovelhead, Panhead or Knucklehead) as the neck on all Gasbox Full Frames mimic this Harley neck style.

Using the Lowbrow customs Neck Cup and Bearing Installer tool, install both top and bottom neck cups, as shown on a Shovelhead frame.

STEP 1: INSTALL THE NECK CUPS & BEARING RACES

Before installing the springer, you will need to press Cycle Standard 1" neck cups for Big Twins into the frame, then install the Timken bearing races. These are sold separately from the springer.

Using a Lowbrow Customs Motorcycle Neck Cup Bearing & Race Installer tool will help ensure everything is pressed in evenly without damaging the races.

Using a bearing packing tool is the best way to ensure proper greasing of your timken bearings.

STEP 2: PACK THE BEARINGS WITH GREASE

Before installing the bearings, pack them thoroughly with high-quality bearing grease.

Don't just coat the outside of the bearing. The grease needs to work completely through the rollers until it comes out the opposite side. There is a bearing packing tool you can get at your local auto store, or you can use the glove method. The glove method, basically is putting a pile of grease in the palm of your hand while wearing a glove. Then scraping the bearing towards you crossing the pile of grease, jamming it in between the rollers and cage. Rotate the bearing and jam as much grease as you can all the way around the bearing.

Using a bearing packing tool thou makes the job just faster, cleaner, more consistent and better for long-term bearing life.

After using the bearing packing tool, you still want to make sure there is grease on the outside cage of the bering as well.

Slide smaller dust shield on to stem. Then slide the bearing with larger OD facing down so the taper will ride into the race. It will hit a step on the stem and you will need to use a Pipe to seat the bearing onto the bottom of the stem. 

STEP 3: INSTALL THE LOWER BEARING

Slide the lower dust shield onto the stem first. You can purchase dust shield separately or they come together with certain neck cup kits. After the dust shield in slid on to the stem, you will then install the lower Timken bearing in the proper orientation. This is important because if you slide the bearing on in the wrong direction you have to cut it off, theres no redo or pressing back off with springers.

Using a properly sized piece of metal tubing or even a PVC pipe with the correct inside diameter of just over 1" a few thousandths over, and an outside diameter of 1-5/16". Drive the bearing onto the stem evenly.

The goal is to:

• Seat the bearing fully against the machined shoulder.
• Keep the bearing square during installation.
• Avoid damaging the bearing or stem.

A piece of pipe or PVC tube with and ID measuring just over 1" a few thousandths over, and an OD of 1-5/16" will help get the bearing on smoothly. 

Insert the stem into the bottom neck cup.

STEP 4: INSTALL THE SPRINGER

With the upper bearing greased and sitting in the top neck cup, you're ready to mount the front end.

1. Slide the springer up through the steering neck into the bottom neck cup.
2. Make sure the top bearing is seated in the race.
3. Slide the top dust shield over the stem and top bearing.
4. Install the preload nut.
5. Tighten the preload nut with 1-1/2" socket until all vertical play is removed.
6. Leave a slight amount of steering resistance so the front end doesn't flop from side to side.

Install the top bearing and dust shield over the stem. If in final assembly make sure to grease the top bearing as well.
By hand tighten the top bearing adjuster nut while pushing up on the springer. Once the bearings are seated in both the neck cups, use a 1-1/2" socket to set the preload adjustment to the bearings.

Unlike older loose-ball bearing setups, Timken bearings can run with a light amount of preload, helping create a smoother and more stable steering feel. When setting the preload you also don't want to be so tight that the steering feels chunky or clicking when moving back and forth.

Move the springer back and forth stop to stop to set the preload. You want it to have some tension but still feel smooth and not flop hard one way or the other. Also you want to check for any end play that the bearings aren't rocking in the cups by pulling up and down on the springer. Don't crank it down and cause flat spots where it feels chunky and stops a lot. 

Place the top tree over the stem.

STEP 5: INSTALL THE TOP TREE

Once the preload is set:

1. Install the stock-style top tree.
2. Install the top acorn nut and tighten with 1-3/8" socket.
3. Check that the preload didn't get tigher after tightening the top acorn nut.
4. If preload is good, tighten top clamp pinch bolts.
5. If you are in final assembly remember to use blue Loctite on pinch bolts.

Take the large top acorn nut and thread it on to the stem. Notice the step in the nut, this helps line the top clamp up and keep it centered with the stem.
Hand tightened first then use a 1-3/8" socket to lock it down. Don't over do it, it may adjust your preload.

After everything is tightened, check the pre load one last time by turning the front end from lock to lock and check the steering movement.

If the steering feels too tight or too loose, you will need to make a small preload adjustments, loosen pinch bolts, take top acorn nut back off and adjust before final assembly.

Tighten the pinch bolts on the top clamp after the preload has been verified one last time. Use blue Loctite if this is final assembly.

The Straton Springer has integrated fork stops cast into the rear leg on both sides. After time when parking your bike these will chip and or damage the paint as it hits the frame.

STEP 6: PROTECT YOUR PAINT WITH A BETTER FORK STOP

One of the easiest upgrades you can make during installation is protecting your frame from springer fork stop damage.

Unlike telescopic forks, a springer front end uses external fork stops that contact the backbone of the frame. They are just big blocks of casting on the rear top section of the springer. Over time, repeated contact to your frame will chip or wear away your paint away.

A simple fix is to install a replaceable button-head Allen bolt where the fork stop contacts the frame.

With a button head allen bolt now your paint will now be protected when the fork stop engages the frame.

Here's how:

1. Turn the front end until the fork stop contacts the backbone.
2. Mark the contact location by tracing around the fork stop block.
3. Center punch, drill, and tap the backbone.
4. Install a button-head Allen bolt.

Now, the springer contacts the replaceable Allen head bolt instead of your nicely painted frame.

OPTIONAL STEERING CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT

Need a little more room between your handlebars and fuel tank? Or maybe the springer is hitting your frame.

Simply adding a washer or spacer beneath the button head bolt will give you a desired clearance on both sides of the frame. It's a quick modification that helps preserve your paint and avoid dings in your gas tank. All while making your custom chopper easier to dial in.

WATCH VIDEO: HOW TO INSTALL A STRATON SPRINGER ON A STOCK HARLEY EVO SPORTSTER FRAME

Thinking about installing a Springer front end on your Harley-Davidson Evo Sportster? In this video, Tim walks you through a complete installation of the Lowbrow Customs Straton Springer on a stock 2001 Sportster frame.

Learn what makes the Straton Springer different from traditional antique-style springers, how to measure for the correct fit, and follow a step-by-step bolt-on installation. You'll also pick up a simple fork stop modification to help protect your paint and improve clearance. Installing a antique style springer on a stock Sportster has never been easier!

The Straton Springer is just as easy to install on a Stock Evo Sportster Frame. This frame is a 2001 we are installing it on.

INSTALLING A STRATON SPRINGER ON A STOCK HARLEY EVO SPORTSTER FRAME: STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

Installing a Straton Springer on a stock Evo Sportster frame is a pretty straight forward process, but taking a few extra minutes during installation will help ensure everything fits correctly and performs reliably.

Before greasing the bearing, makes sure it will work with the smaller dust shield and not have any issues rotating etc.

STEP 1: TEST FIT THE LOWER DUST SHIELD

Before pressing the lower Timken bearing onto the stem, test-fit your lower dust shield inside the bottom of the neck with the bearing to ensure clearance and not interference. The race sets the depth of the neck and you want to make sure the lower dust shield is even with the bottom of the neck and also moving freely.

Because Evo Sportster frames use integrated Timken bearing races, it's important to verify the dust shield fits properly before installation.

Pro Tip: Once the lower bearing is pressed onto the stem, removing it will usually damage the bearing. Checking fitment now can save you time, money and a whole lot of frustration.

Stock Evo Sportser frames have a fork lock tab on the frame that you can use a pad lock to secure when parked. This cannot be used when running a Springer. So it's got to go!

STEP 2: CUT THE FORK LOCK TAB OFF THE FRAME

Before installing anything you will need to remove the fork lock tab that is mounted on the stock evo frame. Certain models have this long tab so you can put a pad lock to lock your triple tree to your frame. Depriving thieves of moving your bike other than in circles.

Well, keeping this fork lock tab will also deprive you of being able to run a springer safely and will defiantly be in the way. It's got to go! Grab your cut off wheel and get to choppin!

Goodbye, fork lock tab!

This is critical. Always check the clearance from your stock frame fork stop and the bottom springs of the springer. If they hit in anyway you are going to need to cut off and or shave down.

STEP 3: CHECK STOCK FRAME-TO-FORK-STOP CLEARANCE

On the front of a stock Evo Sportster frame, you'll find a rectangular fork stop welded to the steering neck. When installing a Stratton Springer, this factory stop can sit very close to, or possibly even contact the lower springs.

If you're certain you'll never reinstall a stock-style front end, you can cut off the factory fork stop completely.

If there's any chance you may switch back to a conventional front end in the future, leave the fork stop in place for now. As you continue the installation, pay close attention to the clearance between the fork stop and the springer springs. Turn the front end from lock to lock, compress the front end or bounce it up and down to check for interference.

The fork stop and bottom springs are extremely close. Shaving down the sides of the fork stop will give enough clearance for the springer to not have any issues. 

If the factory fork stop contacts the springs, simply remove the springer and carefully grind a small amount away from the corners of the fork stop until you have adequate clearance. This minor modification preserves the factory stop while ensuring the springer operates freely without hitting, rubbing or causing steering issues.

Repeating the same steps previously used on the Gasbox Full Frame to install the Straton Springer on an Stock Evo Sportster Frame.

STEP 4: FOLLOW STEPS 2-6 OF THE GASBOX FULL FRAME INSTALL

Once you've verified the lower dust shield, and timken bearing will work with the stock race, the fork lock tab has been removed, the fork stop clearance as been determined and you've made any necessary adjustments.

The remainder of the installation is the same as installing a Stratton Springer on a Gasbox Full Frame.

Simply follow steps 2-6 in the "Installing a Stratton Springer on a Gasbox Full Frame" section to:

• Pack and install the Timken bearings.
• Install the lower bearing onto the stem.
• Mount the springer into the frame neck.
• Set the bearing preload nut.
• Install the top tree clamp, top nut and pinch hardware.
• Protect your frame using the button head / integrated fork stop method.

From this point on, the installation process is identical, making the Harley Evo Sportster just as easy as a Gasbox Full Frame

It was even the same process to add button head allens into the frame to protect the frames paint from the fork stops. 

WATCH VIDEO: HOW TO CHOOSE WHAT MOTORCYCLE HANDLEBARS TO RUN ON A SPRINGER FRONT END

In this video, Tim walks you through the different handlebar configurations available for a Straton Springer front end and explains how each option works.

From integrated top clamp handlebars and fabricator top clamps to riser studs, standard 3.5-inch risers, and everything in between, you'll get a complete overview of the handlebar setups that are compatible with this classic antique-style springer.

There isn't a single "right" handlebar for every motorcycle build. The best choice comes down to your choice of personal riding position, comfort, and the overall style you're trying to achieve.

Our goal with this video is to show you the available options, explain how they fit and function, and make it easier to choose the handlebar setup that's right for your build.

COMPATIBLE SPRINGER PARTS FOR YOUR CHOPPER BUILD

The Straton Springer works with a variety of Lowbrow Customs components, making it easy to complete your front end with matching parts.

Lowbrow Customs Lil Speedies handlebars with integrated top clamp.

HANDLEBAR OPTIONS

Now comes one of the most exciting parts of the build. Choosing what motorcycle handlebars to run. The right bars not only define the look of your chopper, but also affect your riding position and comfort. We offer a wide selection of handlebar options for the Stratton Springer, making it easy to find the perfect combination of style, fit, and function for your build.

• Lowbrow Customs Riser Studs - Mount risers directly to the springer to run Z bars, Drag bars, or other wide style handlebars. Available as half 1/2"-13 and the other half 1/2"-20 thread, as well as fully 1/2"-20 threaded riser studs.
• Lowbrow Customs Springer Top Clamp - Designed for 3.5" handlebars giving you the option for classic T-bars, or Rabbit ears.
• Lowbrow Custom Springer Handlebars: Buckhorns & Lil Speedies - These feature integrated springer top clamp. Simply replace the stock top clamp, tighten the pinch bolts, and you're ready to ride..
  
• Lowbrow Customs Inline Springer Top Clamp - for fabricating your own style handlebars.
• Traditional Dog Bone Setup - Pair an inline top clamp with handlebar posts and dog bones to run Window Bars, Drag Bars, and other vintage-style handlebars.

21" Ribbed Spool hub wheel with 21" Shinko Super classic 270 Front Tire.

FRONT WHEEL OPTIONS

A 21" wheel in a springer will always be that classic look, but we do carry a bunch of options to give your build the look you want.

• Lowbrow Customs 21" Ribbed Spool Wheel
• Lowbrow Customs 21" Narrow Spool Wheel
• Mid-USA Wheels: antique style, single flange, dual flange, and complete wheels.

Lowbrow Customs Wheel Spacer kits.

AXLE / WHEEL SPACERS

Yeah we got those too. If you are running a Lowbrow Customs Wheel we have wheel spacer kits available to take all the guesswork out and allow you to just mount up the wheel to a Straton Springer with ease

We also have kits that give you a wide variety to mix and choose. and full round stock with the right ID to make your own if you are up for the challenge. The choice is yours!

Lowbrow Customs Neck Cup / Bearing Race Installer tool.

NECK CUPS, BEARINGS & INSTALLATION TOOLS

We have Harley neck cups in multiple styles, Neck post bearings for any budget and tools to help you install both, weather you just need to get the job done or one to pass down to you next of kin because its so freakin nice.

Some very helpful tools include our Premium Springer Fork Compressor Tool, Neck Cup & Bearing Race Installer Tool, and the Fast Eddy No. 49 Neck Cup Removal Tool.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Installing a traditional springer front end doesn't have to involve custom machining, loose-ball bearing conversions, or endless fabrication.

The Straton Springer is designed specifically with you the garage DIY chopper builder in mind, combining authentic vintage styling with thoughtful modern improvements that make installation significantly easier.

From Timken bearing compatibility and mirrored rockers to cleaner hardware and direct bolt-on fitment for Gasbox Full Frames, HD 4 speed and Stock Evo Sportster frames, it's a front end built to help builders spend less time modifying parts and more time building motorcycles.

Whether you're putting together your first garage-built chopper or finishing a long-term custom Harley project, the Straton Springer offers classic style that is sure to go get others noticing how sick your bike is!

Lowbrow Customs Straton Springer 24" (6 over STD), with 21" ribbed Spool Hub Wheel, Buckhorns, on a Shovelhead Hardtail. Lookin' killer!

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