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VIDEO: How to Install Lowbrow Customs by Kerker 2 into 1 SuperMeg Exhaust for Harley-Davidson Dyna

Follow along as we install a Lowbrow by Kerker 2 into 1 SuperMeg exhaust system on a 2008 Harley-Davidson FXD Dyna. Tuned, high-performance, made in the USA and only $399.95! Lowbrow by Kerker SuperMeg exhaust systems are available for XL Sportster, FXD Dyna and FXS / FLS Softail, with more fitments coming soon.

Check out the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel to check out all of our videos. We spend a lot of time and effort creating motorcycle how-to videos, product reviews and event coverage for your enjoyment, please let us know what you think by commenting below. Click here to subscribe to the Lowbrow Customs YouTube channel and stay in the know!

You can read a full transcription of this video below:

Hey guys, Todd from Lowbrow here again. Today we're going to show you our new two into one exhaust system. We teamed up with Kerker Exhaust to make this awesome system here.

We're going to be installing it on this 2008 Dyna. It does come with a mounting bracket nicely packaged. We've got the front pipe here. I'm sorry, front and read pipe because it is connected together. Finished in black, no heat shields required. It does have some bungs pre-installed for your O2 sensors should you desire to use those. It comes with a muffler. Nice cone-shaped muffler. Here's the muffler. Notice the nice branding on the muffler, very discreet. It's not jumping off there at you saying Lowbrow Customs but it is on there. It also comes with a hardware package. Everything needed to install it onto the motorcycle. Got a clamp that'll hold the muffler to the front part and then we also have some bolts, some spacers, and some t-bolts.

First thing we're going to do, we're going to go ahead and remove this exhaust system.

Generally, on a stock exhaust system, you're going to need to remove the heat shield in order to get to the bolts that connect the pipe to the cylinder head. Now, this is a stock one here. It just has some hose clamps on the backside. I like to use a 5/16 nut driver on there. Much faster and easier than a flat bladed screwdriver in that it makes a more positive connection. Once again, stock bike, loosen all three of those until they open like so and pull the darn thing off. Then you can get to the four nuts that connect the exhaust pipes to the cylinder heads. Since I don't need to do that on this exhaust system, we'll go ahead and get those four nuts removed.

I think before I do that, I'm going to just loosen, on this particular exhaust, there's two bolts back here holding it to the bracket. I'm just going to loosen those but not remove them and then I'll take these four off and then those will already be loose and I'll be able to pop the whole exhaust off in one lump sum. We'll go ahead and loosen these up a little bit here but not take them completely off so they'll hold the backend of the muffler on while we discombobulate the front portion. All right, the other thing I've done is I have a cheap craftsman half-inch socket that I ground down.

Sometimes, it's tight getting in here in certain different models so I basically ground that down and made it smaller than it originally was. I also like to use a nice long extension on there. It's going to get up into those. It's also a good idea if your exhaust has been on your bike for a long time before you even start the job, take some WD or some penetrating oil and go around and spray the threads on all four of the studs that are sticking out of the head for these nuts that I'm removing right now. That'll make life a lot easier on you. Once they're loose I'll just turn them off with the extension like so with the socket on there, being careful when they come all the way off to not drop them so they don't get eaten by the motorcycle never to be seen again. We are going to reuse these. There we go. There is the rear ones.

Very often it's difficult to get a socket on this front one. We'll try it, if it doesn't work we can always use a wrench. Look, see, there's my lube that I put on there when you weren't looking. Well, we got on there okay. If you have a hard time on the inside front one, just grab a wrench to loosen it. Generally, once these are loose they should come right off unless they're rusty which is also very common on these.

I have this little baby wrench that makes it a little easier to get a nice full swing on there without having to take it off and on several times. That's one of those nuts where it feels like it's loose when you put the wrench on it but when you put your fingers on it id doesn't want to come off. We're done screwing around with that one. There she comes. Also on many of the stock exhaust systems, like if this was a true Dual, a lot of times it's easier to remove both the mufflers and then remove the head pipe's muffler clamps.

A lot of times I would use a 3/8 impact on there with the impact socket and just loosen those up, spray a little lube on there, wiggle them back and forth, pull them off.

We also have these clamps up here. That one is already free I just grabbed it and moved it around. You want to get those off the stud if possible. Also, the reason for taking the heat shields off, there's that one, see it just came off the studs, rather than taking the rear off and then wiggling it to find out it's hung up on one of the studs. It's easier to just go ahead and pop those off the studs. Now we can go ahead and remove these.

Then we're going to take this all off in one, big lump sum. Now a lot of times you can also do this on a stock one depending on what system's on the bike. A lot of times you can just take the whole thing off with the mufflers connected. A lot of times you'll need to take the rear bracket off the mufflers. Next thing we need to do is we need to get these clips off of here because we're gonna reuse them. I have these transmission pliers that work really good for this job. It's like a snap ring for Harley trainees. Basically, it's just going to spread those open to pop them off.

I'm just going to get that on there like so, pop it right off, take your clamp off. This one is stuck down in the groove and that's common that that little thing- there she goes right there- it's common to get stuck in the groove. Not to worry, there it goes. Once again, our pliers on there, open that up, pull it over there and flange. Also, pay attention when you're putting these back on. Obviously, that edge with this on there is what retains this. If you put it on the other way round it's not going to stay on very good.

One other thing worth noting at this point in time is I do have O2 sensor plugs on this particular model exhaust for this bike because I have a power commander five on here. With this particular programmer unit, you can remove the O2 sensors. It basically clipped that runs in a closed loop. Nice little unit there. If you do have a fuel injection bike, you are going to need to reprogram your ECM by either flashing it or adding something like the Power Commander onto your bike. We have a high floor air cleaner, the program exhaust you get some more performance out of your bike that way.

Next, I'm going to go ahead and take the bracket off because we're going to be replacing it with the one from the kit. Three bolts on the bottom of the tranny three bolts, not two. I don't really like using air tools on steel fasteners and aluminum for disassembly if I don't have to also for reassembly. For the time it's taken me to take these out, it's not even worth going over the toolbox to get the impact out.

[music] Okay. Here's our new bracket. I can plainly see by the bolt pattern on there that is going to go here and here without looking into the instructions. Now, so we go ahead and we've already removed the bottom one from the old bracket so we'll take this one out. Since I need a stock bolt in the bottom location where took the other bracket off and it had a longer bolt, I'll replace that one here. Now we'll get to go to our hardware pack. We have two long bolts. Whitewash it or I'm sorry, work washer first. White washer on each one and then there's two spacers. Those are going to go underneath the new bracket to move it away from that.

We can go ahead and get this started like so. I'll just go ahead and put the bolts in here. We'll put our spacers on and we'll introduce this to the transmission cover. Hopefully, they'll like each other nicely. Get that started and then we're going to switch back to our other socket here.

Or you'd use torques specs. Click, click. We'll go ahead and put some new O2 sensor block offs in here. Before we put it on, it'll be a lot easier to get to them now than later. If you do have the O2 sensors, you're going to remove those and reinstall them. I do have one here from before.

This is what your O2 sensor is going to look like. With your wire, thread it into the fitting on there. Takes a big wrench. I usually just put the pipe on the floor and stand on it and get that off of there without rounding off the threads. A lot of times see how that one is corroded too because it's exposed to those exhaust gases all the time. Transfer your O2 sensors or install some plugs. Okay. We have these O2 sensor plugs available. These are 18 millimeters. That's what size the holes are on the pipe.

Some of later model bikes have 12 millimeters. We also have these plugs here for 12 millimeters, but with these, you'll also need an adapter that looks like this and it'll have threads in here where you'll put this one in first and then this one in second. Also, if you're going to use 12 millimeter O2 sensors, you'll also need the adapter that will go from 18 to 12. We have those available on the website.

There's also two little packages of some NICs included with the hardware kit. This is for putting on the threads of the O2 sensors. Now, it's very important when doing this that you just get it a little bit on the threads here. You don't want to get any on this portion of the O2 sensor or it could malfunction this end piece just on the threads with the NICs and that's so if you ever want to take them off if one were to fail and they get corroded in there like I said the exhaust gases going past the threads caused it to corrode. NICs, O2 sensor.

Since I'm putting the plugs in, I'm not going to worry about the NICs because I'm not going to be taking them out anytime soon. We'll go ahead and get the new pipe prepared for installation. Once again, O2 sensors. Oh, that's tight.

I see they've done a nice job on the bungs that they put in the pipes for these. Those are threading in very nicely. Some of the aftermarket pipes I've installed can be a job to get stuff together because the company that's making them doesn't do a nice job like these are.[music]

When pipes have a black finish like this you want to be careful as you're putting this ring on and you could just rest it on the O2 sensor. It won't go any further down. Just be careful you don't mark up the finish there. Then, you're going to get your ring tool, spread it back open over the flange-like so and when you go back up to the cylinder head, I'm going to make sure that that's in that groove. If you look on the backside of this, you can see there's a groove that coincides with that retainer. Go ahead and get the other one on here. There we go gang, I was going backwards. She's a tight one.

Okay. Clip-on front and rear. Grips are a little bit worn. If your clips are really rusty and crusty and bent out of shape, it's not a bad idea to use a new set. We're going to go ahead and introduce the new exhaust to the bike here carefully guiding it up to the-- I know you can't see very good I'm blocking the road. One of the things, when you're putting this up to the motor, is you want to make sure that you're not putting the port over the stud and then we're going to go ahead and this is not orientated or correctly. There we go.

We'll go ahead and cross our fingers that doesn't fall off while we're grabbing a nut. Go ahead and get one started here. She can't go anywhere now and we'll go ahead and move to the front. Rock row. There she goes. All right. Well, I was fussing around trying to get the front one on after I had already started a nut back here, the clamp was wedged up in there so I basically took it back off and realigned it and I got the front clamp on first and then I slid the back one on.

We'll go ahead and put the nut back on that I took off to readjust the front. If you have any difficulties getting the flange up to the head, you might want to regroup and start over. It helps if they're all the way up as you're jockeying the pipe to get it in place there. It's a little more difficult on a two into one but so far it's fitting pretty good. Pretty nice, happy with it so we're going to go ahead and get all four of these nuts started and we're just going to snug those down.

For now, we're not going to make them super tight until after we put the muffler on but we do want to snug them up. Now we're ready to put the muffler on and you're going to want to position this clamp with that facing down and the socket head out so you'll be to it when it's installed. If you put that on backwards, you won't be able to get to it. Then we've got this t-bolts that just go in the center here. There's a cutout, you're going to slide those in like so one on each end. Those are going to line up with those two holes. Go ahead and get this started.

There she goes. This obviously needs to be turned. I got it started on there. I'm going to rotate it. She's a tight one so what I'm going to do is I'm going to wiggle it back and forth a little bit to spread it open a little better. You want to be careful that you don't go on too far here because then if you have to pull it back off, it's going to screw up the paint. That's looking like we're getting close to where we need to be and I'm just going to spread these open just ever so slightly, turn this around. I've went and pushed it up onto the pipe here, it was a little job to get it up over there.

You want it to be a tight fit so it doesn't leak. Now I'm looking down here and I can see that my holes are going to be okay because these slide but I've pushed it on to the point where- Come on drop down in the hole there, there she goes- I pushed it on to the point where the length of this sliding part on the backside of the muffler is almost even with the tab on the bracket. We've got that on there now. It's not quite down flat enough so we'll push that down there. There she goes. Then we have a nighlok and a flat washer on here.

Judging, by the way, it's going on, it looks like I need to rotate my muffler just a little bit more so that when it's flat they'll be angled out this way a little bit more. There it goes, See it? There we go. That's better. It also looks like this back one's close to the tube, this bar here so I'm going to pull that up a little bit and get my nut started and then pull it down. The front one looks like it'll be fine. There she goes. Beautiful. This stuff is not unusual when you're installing a custom exhaust system. You got to get it to fit right. Yes, it is designed for this motorcycle but any of the aftermarket exhausts need a little bit of fiddling around with to get them on there just right in able to get everything lined up.

Make this even, roll it around so that our fastener is on the bottom.

Sometimes, what you can do is, you can continue to roll it and you can choose, do I want to see that fastener and get to it from there or do I want to roll it up and get to it from the bottom? Either way is acceptable. I think I'm going to do it this way so you're not going to be able to see it. Once again, you could roll it like this and do it so that that's facing out. Either way is acceptable. Now I've got this positioned where it's right at the edge of the muffler. I'm just going to take a ratchet and snug it up. With this type of clamp, you can feel it when it's getting nice and tight. You don't want to overdo it, you'll break the clamp.

Then we'll go ahead and tighten these down back here now, the t-bolts. Nice and tight there. Can't get the ratchet on that one, we'll do it like this way. This one is close to that tube bracket so you can't really get the end of the wrench on the ratcheting wrench on there. Now, we'll final-tighten the four nuts to the cylinder heads. You want to get in there a little square, it might work better. There we go. Nice and you want to go from side to side so that they're evenly tightened. Front to rear.

Evenly tightened, you're crushing the new exhaust gaskets that you put in there if needed. Sometimes you can get away with reusing the old ones like I'm doing here today. It's a good idea to take a look at them when you've got the old exhaust off and see if they're in good shape or not. Sometimes you can get away with reusing the old ones.

Again, front to rear. It's nice and tight. Also, a feel thing. You don't want to break any of these off but you do want them to be tight so I'd usually go over them a couple of times. That's pretty good there. There you go. Look at her, she's beautiful, isn't she? We'll go ahead and take it outside and fire it up so you can hear what the new pipe sound like. Okay, guys, we got the exhaust system all installed, let's fire it up so you can hear what it sounds like. Heck yes. Nice and deep roady sound baby. She's a hot rod.

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