In this video, Todd goes step-by-step through an S&S Super E carburetor, explaining what each part does, showing how to disassemble and reassemble, and talks about basic tuning information. If you have a Super E on your bike, or are thinkig of getting one, this video will give you a great overview that will get you familiar with the components and how they work. Super E carbs are found on many Harley-Davidsons and have been a popular aftermarket carburetor for decades.
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You can read a full transcription of this video below:
Hey guys and gals, Todd from Lowbrow Customs here, today we're going to talk about S&S Super E carburetors and we're basically just going to disassemble the carburetor show you what all the components are and what they do. We're not going to go over tuning it, if you like this video you can check out our other videos right here. All right, first thing we're going to talk about is this is the stock S&S backing plate for super E carburetor, one thing worth mentioning if you are going to switch out your stock air cleaner, this is your float bowl vent hole right here. Pay particular attention on the new aftermarket air cleaner of which we have many to choose from on our web store, that it does not block this hole. If it does, once I get the cover off, I'll show you a plug you can remove if it is blocking that hole. If that is blocked the gas won't flow very good because it needs to vent to atmosphere, one other thing about the-- I don't have the part but on a stock plate there’s a level attached to this hole right here. The screw right here controls your enrichment circuit, this is not a choke. It basically adds more fuel for startup.
We also have some enricher choke knobs available on the website, Lowbrow Customs brand this will take the place of the lever one changing to an aftermarket air cleaner. If you are going to run your stock S&S backing plate and you want an alternative to the standard S&S tear drop air cleaner, Lowbrow Customs has came out with this nifty product here, the Lowbrow Customs Air Cleaner Cover for Super E carburetors. Which takes the place of the stock air cleaner cover, simply remove your stock one replace it with this. Has a correct bolt pattern for the S&S backing plate, we have these available and ribbed like the one I have here. We also have them available smooth and fish scale in aluminum, polished aluminum like this one and they're also available in black. Okay, we will go ahead and remove the backing plate now. One other thing worth noting very important that these three screws on this any are sufficiently tightened and it is not a bad idea to use Loctite because if one of these screws does come back itself out, guess where it's going to go? It's going to get sucked in your carburetor right on through the other side and head on into your engine. Stock backing plate, see how these factory screws have a blue lock patch on them when you are assembling it and that basically.
Once again, you want those to be nice and tight and you don't want to over tighten them because this is an alloy carb body and you don't want to pull the threads out of here because your cranking them on down hard. Okay, now that we've gotten that off we can see some of the other features of these carburetors, this large brass screw is going to be your air fuel mixture. Once again this is your enrichment, this is your throttle stop screw right here and this is your accelerator pump adjustment. Very frequently when I worked at a Harley dealership, bikes would come in with these carbs on and the customer would say keeps fouling plugs. A lot of times I would find that the customer thought they were turning their idle up when they were turning the accelerator pump adjustment upward, basically gives it a bigger squirt of gas. The other the other thing I forgot to say about the enrichment is, when using these carburetors when you're starting your bike you want to-- it does have an accelerator pump so if it's an older bike, you want to give it a couple squirts before you turn your ignition on in a prime kick as is a very ritualistic thing to do with older bikes.
When you're using this enricher, once the bike has started in the enricher is in the up position you want to shut it off right away. If you do not it will more than likely failure your plugs within a matter of minutes because it's adding fuel to mixture for startup. The other thing I did forget to mention here is earlier in the video I did tell you about how we have this ball vent which is right here. That coincides with the hole on the stock backing plate right there. If you can see it on the other side there and if you remember I was talking about putting aftermarket air cleaner on. You don't want, if it does block that hole, you can remove this plug right here because, if you look down in there you can see that that passageway connects with this. If your aftermarket air cleaner is blocking that hole remove that plug, it'll still vent to atmosphere. We can go ahead remove this and take a quick look at that. As with any air fuel screw, it's going to have a tapered end on it and that's going to regulate the air fuel mixture. Supporting that the spring is on there that keeps tension on the screw, so the setting doesn't go away, go ahead and take out the arrangement circuit.
Half inch wrench. You've got spring and a plunger. Right now, that we have the stock in enrichner [sic] removed I'll show you how easy it is to put one of these lowbrow customs enrichners but basically has a knob and that will allow you to turn it on without having the stock backing plate we have those available in brass and chrome. Really simple thing to do, just threads in no big deal. See, there's the-- has a spring on it looks just like the stock part but it doesn't have the button for the lever. Now, the way this works is you're just going to pull it up and turn it and that opens up the enrichment circuit for starting purposes. Drop that baby in there, for a bit down, tighten it up, it’s all there’s to it, boom she’s on, off. Since we're going to be taking some more stuff apart I'll just pop that back off. Now, we'll go ahead and remove the float bowl, but before we do that, I'll show you how easy it is to change main jet without removing the float ball. Basically, this is your float bowl drain plug, takes a 5/8 wrench and then you're going to pop that out. Please note that it does have an O-ring on it, that is required for it to seal. Then if you look inside the hole you're going to see the main jet looking at you. If you are just changing the main jet, you can just use a stubby screwdriver when it's mounted on the bike and unthread it. Still be flat head screwdriver. There’s the main jet.
All main jets are marked on the side with what size they are. Okay, one other neat product we came up with here a lowbrow customs are these extended local screws normally they would just have a very short flat head screw in there. When the carburetor is mounted on the engine, it can be very difficult to get to this back when you see out sticking down now it's going to be very easy to get to that with a wrench when the carb is mounted on the bike. If you're doing a jet change or checking your float level, it makes it much easier to remove the ball when it's installed. We do have those in brass and we also have them available in Chrome. Those are going to take 5/16, you can use a wrench or a socket, either way go ahead and take the ball off. One other thing this is your fuel inlet where you're going to connect your fuel line. We'll see what's happening inside here once we take this ball off, it will gain access to the other two jets that these carburetors have.
It will go ahead and pop football off. Okay, we will go ahead and concentrate on the ball for right now and then we'll switch back over to the carb body to show you the Jets. As you can see, here's our float, there's a screw that retains the pin for the float it is very important that your float level is correctly set. There's also your float needle in there, which is connected to this tank. We'll go ahead and pop that off. Also notice this little O-ring here, very important that O-ring is back on there and in good condition when you're putting your ball back on. Here's your float, your float needle which controls the flow of gasoline and now the ball, attaches to that arm right there and it will cure this drops down there's a seat on your inlet that just fits in there like that. As the ball raises and lowers as gas is being consumed by the engine, it just lets gas in or out of the ball.
If your float isn't sucked correctly, you may find that you have a bunch of gas coming out of your overflow that's a pretty good indication that your float is not seating on here or there could possibly be just a small piece of dirt in there that came from your gas tank. You'll notice there is no filter on this carburetor like some carburetors do have a filter that won't allow that, on this type carburetor it's probably is a good idea to have it inline filter either inside your gas tank at your valve or in the line going to the carburetor. Inline filter we have those available on the website if you need one of those.
This is your accelerator pump housing. One of the screws is holds the ball to the body, there's only going to be two screws left once you have the ball off, go ahead remove these two screw and show you what we've got going on underneath here.
Okay there is a rubber diaphragm here that goes in conjunction with this lever. Basically when you're working your throttle, that's going down, when that pushes against this, it squirts some gas through these passageways and comes out inside the carburetor to add fuel. This needs to be in good condition, it is removal it will come off of here. Notice there's a spring underneath it and there's a groove. It appears that when someone was working on this carburetor they slightly pinched the edge of that, probably wasn't causing any major difficulty but you can see that it now is deformed and not in the greatest of condition.
I have something to be aware of once servicing one of these carburetors or rebuilding it, it's a good idea to just go ahead and replace that when you're putting it back together you do want to be centered obviously you want to have the spring in there and then you want this to ride in that groove, when you put it together make sure everything's good and then you have a couple of O-rings here. It's imperative that those two O-rings are in those two locations and also in good condition.
Again this is your fuel inlet, which also has an O-ring on it the same as the drain plug O-ring. Now that this is removed, we can show you how the needle sits in there like so. You can see that the needle is tapered, there's also a hole there that that tape rides on to seal it off once the ball is full.
One other thing as my fine cameramen noticed while filming is he noticed that this tiny little spring and check ball came out of this hole when I took the ball off-- I'm sorry when I took the cover for the accelerator pump. That is going to go in this hole right here like so. Very important that those are in there, when you put the carburetor back together, basically it's a check ball system connected to the passageways on this.
There it is again, we'll show you a close up of that. This nozzle with the O-ring on it is actually what sprays the gas, when you work the accelerator pump. See how it is connected to that passageway, comes up through here and sprays it into the engine. Okay, it's also imperative that you have a good seal on your ball, if your gasket is old or distorted your paper gasket on the ball is not a bad idea to replace that. It's giving me a problem coming off, it was stuck on there, there's your old gasket.
Then we have your intermediate jet which is right here, which is also removed with a flat head screwdriver. That wasn't very tight. Also has a size on it. This is a point 295, all have sizes but the only other thing I haven't taken out of here is the emulsion tube, which is just right here. Not a bad idea anytime you're cleaning the carburetor remove all the components to make sure there's no swarf dirt or anything stuck in there, if you are changing you can just remove the accelerator pump by pulling out the bottom, there is also a rubber little bellows thing that keeps dirt moisture out of there and you'll get those in a master rebuild kit.
Probably not a good idea to tamper with those two screws on this if there's no reason to remove this assembly here, a lot of these are pinned over on the back side and you will destroy things by taking those out, generally you can just open that up for cleaning purposes. This is a push pull type of throttle setup where you're going to have a two cable system on there, one opens the butterfly then one closes it.
Also a good thing to say that a stock Harley cable is not compatible with an S&S. Now if you are doing an S&S carb swap from a CV to an S&S on a modern Evo style motorcycle, you will need new cables. This is an O-ring that seals this to the manifold in conjunction with a gasket. Good idea to check that to make sure it's in good shape, is very easy to change that out.
We also have a master rebuild kit for these carburetors on our website that's going to come with all the fun parts we just talked about, this is a flange style mount where it's got two bolts going through the manifold and even though it is a flange mount where you're going to bolt this to if you are not using a stock backing plate if you are using an aftermarket air cleaner that doesn't affix the carb to the cylinder head sail like an EVO, we also have this nice gas box parked here which is an S&S carb support bracket that will go from the bottom mounting hole on the manifold to the center ball on a big twin. It actually says it fits panhead shovelhead and EVO, most of the product works real well and you can run your hose through the center there doesn't get on the hot cylinders.
Thanks for watching our video today. Come back and see us again real soon kids, peace out.