Watch as Todd, Head Tech at Lowbrow, shows you step-by-step how easy it is to install Lowbrow Customs 39mm Fork Shrouds on a Harley-Davidson Sportster. These install on any motorcycle with narrow glide 39mm forks and are just one of many custom Sportster parts you will only find at Lowbrow Customs! Narrow glide 39mm forks are found on Sportsters as well as some models of FXD Dyna. You can check our full post with very detail images and instructions for each step in case.
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Pictures of our Fork Shrouds in Action:
Mikey's 2006 Harley-Davidson Sportster in the Badlands.
Paco's Harley-Davidson Shovelhead.
Mikey's 2006 Harley-Davidson Sportster with Lowbrow Customs Shotgun Pipes, 39mm Fork Shrouds, and Fork Lowers
You can read a full transcription of this video below:
Hi, I'm Todd from Lowbrow Customs. Today, we're going to show you how easy it is to install our 39mm Fork Shrouds on this 2006 Sportster. Go ahead and get started. The first thing you want to do is remove the fender. On a lot of the Sportster models, you can't get the tire off with the fender in place because it will hit the four nuts that are attaching it. I like to use an air tool for removal, not so great for installation but we'll go ahead and get this fender popped off here.
We're not going to be reusing the fender, so we'll set that aside for now. Now we're going to go ahead and remove the caliper. These are metric, takes a 12.10 millimeter for the two caliper fasteners. Comes right off pretty easy. All right, we're going to go ahead and remove the caliper. What I'm going to do here is I'm going to go ahead and hang this off the bike somewhere so that it's not dangling by the brake line. Well, that should work. I will also keep it out of the way while we do the regular job here.
Fenders off, calipers off. We'll go ahead and loosen the axle. All right, we're going to go ahead and loosen the pinch bolt on the right-hand side for the axle removal. I got my trusty rubber hammer. Go ahead and remove the axle. Take your wheel out of the way. Now we're going to need a T45 Torx. We're going to loosen these two pinch bolts, top and bottom. It's a good idea. I'm going to go ahead and do the top one first. Now, if you don't put your hand on that fork, it will fall out when you loosen the bottom one.
See how easy that is? There we go. We're ready to put the right side on. We're going to go ahead and remove both of the pinch bolts because those are going to get replaced. The kit comes with a hardware pack. The short ones obviously are going to go on the top. We might as well go ahead and get that one started now. Go ahead and get it tightened down but don't tighten it fully. It's now tight.
Now the long ones, you can go ahead and have a flat washer. That will go on the outside. That will slide through the tab on there. Then you've got this spacer. This is just going to go right here like this. We're going to leave that loose for right now and just snug it up. But we want to go ahead and put our fork leg back up in there. We'll tighten the top one and then we'll adjust this. All right, now that we've got it loosely installed, we've snug that one down, we can go ahead and put the fork assembly back into it, into the triple trees.
Your ratchet ready? There she goes. Now what I'm going to do next is I'm going to go ahead and snug this so it doesn't fall out. Then I'm going to tell you about how there is an installed height specification on this fork tube. It can be found in your service manual. The specification is 0.42 to 0.50. So basically, what you're trying to accomplish is you want that to measure from the top of the cap to the top of the triple tree.
One of the most important things is, they give you a range on that. The important thing is that bolts fork legs and tubes are set at the exact same height from side to side. You're going to use the nib, if you have one of these, if you don't have this tool. I'm at 0.46, just by eyeballing it, 0.459. That's within the range. That's pretty good. If you don't have a vernier, you can just look at the fork tube and just make sure you can just use a machinist ruler or something else if you don't have this tool here. Not everybody has that tool in their garage.
Now that we've snagged up the top, go ahead and snag the bottom on. Looks good. Now ready to go ahead and torque the two pinch bolts. Simple, right? All we got to do now is do the other side. Back to our T45, again. Make sure that you support the fork so it doesn't fall out. Bada-bing. Go ahead and remove our quartet fasteners, replacing with our socket heads. The same program as before, top them in there. Washer, spacer. It's easier if you go ahead and start that first so you're not fiddling around with that, trying to get it in there while you're holding this up.
Once again, we're just going to tighten that by hand until we get our fork leg and the lower back in there. We're ready to go back together at this side. All right, I'm just eyeballing that. We'll go ahead and snug this up. You double-check that, that both sides are equal. Again, on this side, we had 45,000. Give or take. It is about 43, so we'll go ahead and move that up, just a skosh. There she is, 45. Perfect. Good one. Again, don't forget to torque these. There you have it. All we have left to do now is put the wheel back on, and the break. Just about done. Spacer goes on the left. Basically, the end of the axle on this side sets it. There we go. Okay, we have flat washer, lock washer, and nut. Okay. I found that the best way to make sure the axle is centered is to go ahead and snag this up, like so. Then, we'll go ahead and torque the axle to factory specification here. Then by simply loosening this again before we torque it. The axle finds it's happy home. Again, there is a torque spec on this fastener also. All these specifications can be found in your workshop manual. You do have a workshop manual, right? If not, we do have some available on the website for your purchasing pleasure.
All we have left to do is put our caliper back on, which we conveniently left hanging here. Now it's a good idea not to let your friends help out and pump up your brake while you're working on your bike or you will have to retract the pads. Also, one other thing worth noting anytime you've removed the caliper from your motorcycle, it is a good idea to pump the lever before you go for a ride. All right, another thing, I always like to do anytime I've had a wheel off a motorcycle and reinstalled it. We'll just get that wheel off the ground. Make sure she spins nice and free. make sure our brake's working correctly. It is. And that's all there is to it.