This is the eleventh part (check out part ten here) in our extremely popular video series in which Todd Muller, Head Motorcycle Tech here at Lowbrow Customs, disassembles a unit 650 c.c. Triumph motorcycle engine and rebuilds it. In this installment Todd gives you a step by step guide on how to rebuild your Triumph 650 transmission. He shows how everything works and what to look for before reassembly. With old gears, comes wear and tare, Todd shows you what to look for before installation. From your kicker cover pieces to installing your cam plate, gears, and indexing correctly, this how to video will take the fear out of digging into that 4 speed transmission and making sure you assemble it the right way easily. You can check out the Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild - Part 12 to continue following along!
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You can read a full transcription of this video below:
Welcome back. Today, we're going to put this transmission in there and make it go "Click, click, click," like it's supposed to. We're going to show you how to assemble all these awesome parts here on the workbench, we're going to show you what to look for, for where, and then we're going to show you most importantly, the thing that a lot of people don't quite understand that's really not that difficult when you think about it, indexing your transmission so it shifts through all four gears.
I think one of the biggest things about transmissions is you want to use very good components that aren't worn out. If you have worn components, that will cause difficulty shifting even if you are indexed correctly. As always, it's a good idea to have your workshop manual close by to study the drawings, pictures, how things work, all the components you need to make it happen. I've basically arranged all the parts that go into this portion of the job to make sure I have everything I need all at once so I'm not in the middle of something and go, "Oh, crap. I forgot about that." I've also inspected all the parts, so they're all in good shape.
I do have some worn out parts, we'll show you here as we get moving along. The first thing I want to do is we're going to go ahead and assemble. I know this seems silly that we're going to do this first, but we're going to need this after we get it indexed to check the shifting. We'll get some stuff off the workbench and we'll get the kicker cover assembly assembled with the shifter and the stuff that goes in here. I didn't take out the clutch release. There's no reason to remove that if you don't need to. I did remove all the other stuff to clean it and inspect it, and also I polished up the cover while it was off the engine.
Let me grab another clean rag to set that on. Never mind. Here's something right here. We're going to need this piece and these springs. This is the part that sticks out that your shifter goes on. We have the plungers with the springs and then these parts right here. Basically, all these components are going to go right in here. Also take note that there is an o-ring that I've already pre-installed on this shifter shaft. When you slide this into here, that will keep the oil from leaking out around here. Be sure to replace that o-ring. All right. We'll start by putting this in there first. I'm just going to put a little oil on the new seal so it goes through the hole.
Since it is a new seal, it's probably not just going to slip right in there, and it doesn't so let's give it a whack. There she goes. As you're moving along, check that everything moves freely. Looks good. Now, we have these two springs. One goes on each side of this shifter. That's what's going to give it that return. If your springs are taking a little set to them and you're not replacing them, they're still good. See how that's got a little curvature to it. Just put it back in the way it came out. Like so. Then, the next thing that's going to go on is going to be this plate orientated like that. You'll notice it has these edges.
When these are installed in these holes like so, that edge will let that move as you're shifting up and down and then these won't be popping out. We'll put those in in a sec. We'd put this plate on here. It appears that all four of these studs have come out when they should've stayed in, so we're going to put some Locktite on, I already did that one. The longer portion of this thread is going to go into the cover. The shorter portion, you can see on there, there's a little ridge where it stops. We'll go ahead and reinstall these. I don't really feel there's any need to double-knot it because I'm putting some Locktite on them.
I'm just running them down in until they get to that little edge where the thread stops and starts again. You can see the Locktite oozing out around the holes so you know it's going to work. See, they're all bottom to the edge. That one's not. There we go. Okay. We've got all those Locktited, then we're going to put this plate on top and a serrated washer on each one, followed by the nut. If I would've already put these on the hole, then they would've been pushing up on this. It's much easier to just do it like this. There we go. Here's my wrench.
Tighten them all down evenly. Anytime I'm doing this, I like to go back over a couple of times to make sure I've got it good. That one seems nice and tight, that one's good. Okay.
Now in order to get those in there, we're going to need to just temporarily throw a shifter on there and then there's our spring action from the first two springs we've put in. These are just going to drop the spring down in the hall and then you're going to put this while holding it that way. Boom. See that? This is what I was referring to earlier, there's a slant on that and an angle on that, so when you're shifting, this is sliding against that.
Then we're going to turn this and drop our other one in there and that's what it'll look like when you're done. Now, there is also this seal which seals your Kickstarter gear. That goes underneath this little-- See, there's a lip there. It's very difficult to get this seal. If you'll see, you'll notice this is not an o-ring, it's square. It's got a flat edge. Very difficult to just try to stick it in that hole and work it around. What you're going to do next is you're just going to grab your favorite punch and you're going to tap that piece out of there. Now there she comes. She's starting to come. At any time you're driving something like this out, you want to go side to side.
You don't want to just bang all the way on one side, you want to go side to side. There it comes. Now it's out. That's where the new seal is going to go. It looks a little grimy in there so we'll give that a quick wipe down. A little bit of old grease left in there from previous years. Now, putting this off a little bit. I like to put the seal In here. Now, see how difficult that would have been to try to work it without taking this out? You're just going to pop that back in there with your favorite useless socket. You want to make sure it's down in there all the way, and it is not. There she is, do you hear that tone? Anytime you're beating on things like that, look at that, beautiful installation. There's our new seal in there. When this gets slipped in here, that will keep this from leaking oil out of the transmission. That's it for this. Now, we've got our clutch part we've just temporarily installed on there, and our new cap with an o-ring, that's it for the kicker cover. I don't see any need to put the kicker gear in there right now because we're going to be using this too when check the indexing of the tranny, that's just one less thing that's in the way.
We'll put that on there, final assembly. Now, I'm going to show you in the book, there's a specific way, you're actually going to index this spring. You're going to drop it over this, and then it's going to line up with this. I'll show you the picture in the book. If this book has that picture, which it should-- There it is, right there. Locating tang, Kickstarter quadrant and spring location. You can see, here's where your pin goes-- we had it upside down. Here's where your pin goes, and you're going to line up this piece of the spring with this slot right there on here. We're just going to slide that over. Sometimes a screwdriver's needed for- just going to work that spring over it.
Now, you can see that that tang on the spring is lined up with this. If you drew an imaginary line there, that's how it will be when it goes onto that cover. That's all good.
Well, we already showed you how to put these bearings in. The layshaft and main shaft bearing with the snap ring already installed from previous. The only other thing we need to put in here is our selector quadrant. This is the pin for the selector quadrant, that's going to go in this hole right here. It's always a good idea, once again, try to fit your parts, make sure everything's working smoothly, if something's not right, fix it before you install a part to find out, "Wow, that's stuck in there. I can't get it back out."
You can only install this one correct way. You'll see there's a hole on there which coincides with the hole on there, this is going to take two cotter pins, that's what holds that in there. Basically, you're just going to stick this in the hole. Do you see? We're backwards, we can't do it that way. Do you see the hole is there? That's incorrect, the hole's facing this way. We're going to put it this way because that way when we slide that other pin in there, then it will line up with the hole on here. I'm going to put a little dab of grease on it because I love grease on everything, grease or oil, Assembly Lube or Loctite, that's what we like.
Like so and then you have to look, you have to orientate your pin so that the hole lines up, you're just going to turn it and there it is, I can see it. You're going to pull it out just a little bit, that's probably very difficult to see, such a tiny hole. Notice there's another small hole, see there's two holes, two cotter pins. One of the cotter pins goes through the hole, the other cotter pin goes through the groove. That's back in there and there's our hole lined up again. We're going to drop our cotter pin in there, it should go in nice and easy. Then we're going to put the other cotter pin in this hole.
We're going to orientate the cotter pin, the head of it so that we can- we'll turn this around so that we have the long side facing this way. These are actually a little longer than necessary. Then we're just going to bend that up, past the gasket surface, and bend that one down. We can actually trim that just a skosh, it'll go down all the way-- there we go. That one is installed and bent over, and then we need to bend this one over. Once again, orientate the cotter pin so we can bend this, this one's a little trickier. Take your screwdriver that you had a minute ago here-- what'd we do with that?
Here we go, bend that all the way up, and bend the other side the opposite direction. I have got to flip it over to get to that one. There we go, now this part's installed. That's what actually coincides with- when this is together, those two little changers there go into those. When you shift, it moves this up and down, which in turn coincides with this like so. Then as you move this up and down, it rotates this, which in turn has the shifter forks in this groove and that's what slides it back and forth to go into the different gears. You can see a really neat picture of that in the book too. Here it is, right here, gang.
There's the piece that's in the cover, there's the quadrant we just installed, there's the cam plate that I just showed you, the detent and the selector forks. Once again, workshop manual has a lot of great illustrations of this procedure. We'll go ahead and set this aside, we're done with this for now. It's also a good idea to check, this is the stop for your kicker, make sure that's in good shape. This just has one little mark on it, I've seen them when they're buggered up, make sure it's tight in there. Next thing we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and put the cam plate in. Worth noting to give this thing a thorough inspection, you see this groove is where the selector forks ride.
They have this little roller that goes on there, and when this thing's all together, this has to ride around in that groove to change gears. You want to take a real good look at this part to make sure it's not worn out, because if it's worn out, it won't shift good and also, it gets wear on this surface right here from the plunger. I also just found a pretty worn out quadrant, if you want to get a look at this. This definitely would not shift correctly, look at the teeth on there. Do you see how they're worn, rounded? This part is a reject, no Bueno. Even though these teeth are still okay, that's no good.
All right, moving along. This is your plunger, this is your plunger holder, you're going to have a spring, that'll get threaded up from the bottom. Now, what's very interesting is I could probably go grab about six different plungers, and they all have a little bit different profile on them. I actually just brought this one home from the shop today, and I'm going to try it out. I had this one in there, I was trial fitting it before you showed up today. We're going to try this. Do you see how it's more rounded on the end, it's not as pointed? We're going to try this new one on there and see how well it functions. Also, I'm going to be putting this special kind of a sealing washer over that. So again, make sure your plunger moves freely and your spring has good tension. We're going to go ahead and thread this up in from the bottom, with our new sealing washer on it. We'll tighten her down. Then we can go ahead and put this back in here while depressing that. This might actually be a better way to do it because you want to make sure this is threading nicely. This is aluminum, not steel. If you're trying to force that up into this and it's not threading good, you might not be able to feel it. We'll go ahead and pop this in there.
We'll depress the plunger. I know this is probably hard to see. I'm having a hard time depressing the plunger. Like so. I'm checking the action on the cam plate with the plunger to make sure it moves freely and it's liking each other. You'll notice those have a range of motion. That's as far as it's going to go. Then these are all of the different gears. Basically, I'm just testing it. Feels real nice. I've marked this is actually a 71, 72, a little bit different. I don't like mixing and matching. This one has way further throw between the gears, but I'm just showing this because I want you to know which slot does which gear.
You can see that this is installed in the engine like so. This is first. That notch is neutral, second, third, fourth. Okay, so we can see by looking at this, we can see right now we're in neutral. If we go this way, that'd be hitting the shifter down. You're in first, neutral, second. We're going past that extra notch. That's third. Then there's another extra notch on this one and that's fourth. The earlier cam plate had some extra notches. That seems to be working real nice. I'm happy with that. This is going to be our main shaft here. This is our layshaft or countershaft.
Once again, if we refer to our book, and we go to the diagrams where the transmission gears are shown, you can figure out what gear is what. Right here is a really awesome picture. Let's orientate it the same way it is in the book. You'll see that this is first gear, third gear, second gear, and fourth gear. So this is fourth gear. That's going to get installed in the bearing that we previously put in the case. Once again, check for wear. This is where your seal's going to ride on this one. Early and late have a different seal size and a different cover. This is the cover that's going to go opposite here.
We'll show you this. Go ahead and flip this around so you can get a look. Obviously, if you've been following along and watching it come apart, you know where that goes, but we'll show you anyway. This cover goes here with this seal, and this protrudes through that seal. This right here is what seals the fluid from leaking out in between those two. We're going to go ahead and install this in the bearing. You got to have this in there first because you can't get this in, you can't get the cam plate in if you put this in first. That's just going to go right in that bearing. Slides right in like that.
Check it to make sure it's spinning freely. Everything's good there. Now the next thing we're going to do is we're going to put our main drive gear on. This surface of the gear, the sprocket, is what forms a seal on this seal that we installed a couple videos ago. We did that after we put the case together because it's much easier to get that in there. I forgot I'm doing a 20-tooth on here. We're not going to go into gearing. We're putting the motor together. The other thing that I can show you real quick, we can slide this back out real quick. I always like to trial fit these two parts. I want to make sure that these slide together, like that.
I don't want to get to the point where I've got this in there and now my sprocket won't go on because it's not fitting correctly. Once again, put that in there and a little dab of oil on here to help this slide in the seal. I'm holding this with one hand so I don't push it out, and then I'm going to slide this over the splines on this and into the seal, like so. Now the next thing we need is our lock tab. Once the nut is on and torqued, you'll bend this over so it doesn't come loose. There we go. Okay, then we'll go ahead and get our nut on there. Should go on nice and easy. Shouldn't be any forcing that.
No forcing of nuts. It's not threading on easily. The threads are boogered. Stop. Take it apart, look at it, figure out why. Now, I bet you're wondering how in good God's name we're going to torque that darn nut. I'm going to show you. All right, so here's how I'm going to torque that nut. I've got this old piece of chain. I've wrapped it around the sprocket. I've tightened the chain in my vise so when I put my torque wrench on there, it should stay still. Now it's going to want to pull the motor this way as I'm torquing. What we're going to do is we're just going to pop this piece of wood in here to protect the engine. We're going to torque this to 90-foot pounds.
See how it's pulling the motor up against the wood, easy peasy. Easy now. It's all right, we're good. Okay, there she is. Now that we've got the nut torqued, we can bend over the lock tab. Doesn't have to be pretty, just has to work. There we go. Now we're going to be ready to start assembling the transmission. All right, so we got our main drive gear, lock tab bent down. Now before we proceed with the training, I want to show you a couple of things here. I know I talked about this earlier, but I didn't show you the gear. Now, this is a late one where the main shaft rides on this bushing. That's the fit.
This one has this machined edge that the seal for this cover rides on when this cover goes over here, and then this seal goes in there. The reason I'm showing you this is because there's two different sizes. Here's the other cover. This is early, where it doesn't have this machined, where the bushing actually does the sealing. Oh, boy, that seal's so old and hard. I can't even push that through there. If we get a look here, we can see that the diameter of those is much different. So basically, just pay attention when you're ordering new parts. If you have this one, you get the small seal. If you get this one, you get the big seal, also important if we are mixing in matching parts. Here's what the new seal looks like. I also want to show you a couple of worn-out gears. When you are inspecting your tranny, once you've disassembled it, and you've inspected it before reassembly. What we are looking for is things like this. There's a broken tooth on this one. This one, there's some pitting on the teeth. You see right there it's all pitted. You can also see on this one where the gear engages with the next one on the slide together is pretty worn out there.
These are the kind of things you are looking for, is wear here, wear on the teeth, or broken teeth. Any of those things? No Bueno. Don't want to use those. Okay, so we have one more part to put on the bottom of the crankcase. What this does, this is your level plug. The way this works is when this is threaded up here I will show you after we put it in. In order to check your transmission level, you're going to take this smaller of the two on the bottom of the engine. Bottom of the transmission, you are going to take this out. Then you can see that, well, we'll go ahead and thread it in.
When this is threaded in there when the transmission level is correct, it will be right at the top of this tube, so when you are filling your tranny, it's empty. You'll fill it up until oil drips out of this hole, then it's out of this level. That's how you can tell your trannies at the correct level. you want to put a new sealing washer, so it doesn't leak and you are just going to thread that in the bottom right there.
Tighten it up. Okay, that's pretty good. Okay, so if you want to look you can see the transmission fluid level will be at the top of that standpipe right there. There's also a copper sealing washer on the smaller one that you'll remove for checking the level. You don't really want to crank this one down and if you start taking the little one out, and the big one's coming out too, you might want to put a wrench on it, or if you've drained the tranny or it's not filled up, you just want to make sure that the standpipe portion of this is tight in the case and this one's not overtightened, so that they don't both come out together because then if you are filling your tranny.
You'll have a big hole and all the tranny fluid will come out on the, wherever. It'll make a mess. Okay, so we'll go ahead and snug that one up. We won't tighten it all the way because obviously, we are going to have to take it back off when we fill the tranny. Okay, now we are ready to go ahead and get started, putting the gears in the transmission to prepare ourselves for indexing. We'll talk about the shift forks real quick. You may notice on the shift forks, there's going to be this roller that fits over that pin and those roles in that cam plate. Well, you'll notice that the location of those, is in a different place. The one that's more towards the middle, is going to go on the countershaft or layshaft.
The one towards the end is going to go on the main shaft when it's all installed. What I like to do for this, I just put a dab of grease on there, and that will hold the roller on there so it doesn't fall off when I go to put it in the transmission. Okay, we have these two thrust washers, and one will go inside the transmission, where the layshaft bearing is, that we installed earlier with the special tool and also we'll put a little dab of grease on the backside of this to stick it on the inside of there so it doesn't fall off as we're putting the countershaft in. Then the other end of the countershaft will get the same thrust washer, right here where the other bearing is. Like so.
You can also check these for wear. This one has a little wear on it, but it's not terrible. It's just one spot. It's got a little bit of wear. It should be pretty flat, and they look pretty good if they are worn down really hard, then you might want to look into getting some replacement once we do have those available on the website. We'll put some grease on her. On the backside of it. In a couple of spots and then we are going to reach and you'll notice there's a little tit. that lines up with that hole. That has to be indexed in that hole and it's kind of hard to get in there and get it. You just got to fiddle around with it a little bit there. We missed it completely, but we'll get it.
There she goes. You got to put it in and turn it till it hits the hole where the little dowel pin is, and there you go. No, that thrust washer's in there and it won't fall off because we've got the grease on it. You look in the book you are going to show you how to index this tranny. I don't do it the way they show it in the book. I can't take credit for the way I'm going to show you how to do it. If you look on the internet you'll find out this the Hughie Hancox method and I found over the years this basically works the best for me. Probably will work good for you too. You're going to put this selector into first gear. Once again we can grab the one that's marked, where first gear is.
This is how it is assembled in the engine, and if we look on the backside, we can see that's first gear. It's going to be positioned like this with the plunger right there. That'll be for first gear. All throughout the assembly, until we get the inner cover on there for indexing, we are going to keep it in first gear. The book's going to show you to put it on this notch, between third and fourth and then you are going to line up a tooth on that with the main shaft and blah, blah, blah, blah. This way works way easier you'll see. Okay, so we are going to go ahead and put the countershaft in. You see this, where the two gears come together. That's where this is going to ride, like so.
You can have that on there now, that's perfectly fine. You are going to go ahead and, or you can do it either way. You can put it on afterwards. you're going to go ahead and put your countershaft in. Like so, we are going o slide this out a little bit. You're going to put that selector fork on there, and then we are going to just insert it into that slot on the cam plate. You may notice, this rod is going to go through both the selector forks and into a hole on the backside. Right now, there it is lined up, we'll show you how that works in a second. Now what we are going to do is we are going to go ahead and remove these two gears off of the main shaft.
We are going to set them inside the tranny on top of the other gears. Then once we get those in there with the shift fork shaft, we can go ahead and slide the main shaft through the whole mess out the other side, and then we'll have all the gears except for this one that goes on the layshaft right here. You can't get these in with that on. That goes on last, and what we are going to do, is we are going to go ahead and take the one that goes all the way in first and we are going to put the shift fork on it now because it will be pretty difficult to get it in there with the shift fork. We are going to stick it in there, we are going to get this piece of the roller in the cam plate.
Don't be alarmed if it's not going right into where it needs to go, and if that falls out, it's not a big deal. Now I could see the roller's just about engaged in the slot where it needs to go. What I'm going to do next is, and I'm not worried if those fallout, I'm going to install the shift fork shaft and that will help those stay in the correct place where they need to be for the rest of the assembly. I've got my shift fork chefs started, I haven't got it through the second shift fork, the one that goes. I'm going to just look in there and verify that it is starting where it needs to go and it is. Then I'm going to slide that home like so. Let's again double check it's where it needs to be, then I can go ahead and put that gear, see how that gears just sitting on top of the other one, the teeth are holding it up. Now we can go ahead and set this one in there, making sure that the shift fork is on that spot right there, like so. Now we're ready to just slide the main shaft through. Everything's lined up, it should go right in and it does. Now that we know everything's lined up, it's all good, we're going to put some oil on here. Then last but not least, we're going to put this gear on the lay shaft with that side facing in, like so. When the other cover goes on here, these gears, actually this main shaft is going to be right there because it's going to get pulled this way when we put the kicker gear on. That's what it looks like all assembled. Give that a little push to make sure it's all the way seated in the backside there and we can also put some oil on the shift forks where they're going to roll. A little bit of oil in there, a little bit of oil on the shaft. There we go. Now we're ready to go ahead and put the inner cover on. Now we're going to trial fit it, check our indexing, and then we'll pop it back off and put our gasket with some gasket cement on there and finalize the indexing. Now once again, a little dab of grease on the backside of the thrust washer to hold it so it sticks on the cover and doesn't fall off. It's also important that you have these two dowels in your crankcase. Make sure those are in place, sometimes they get stuck on here, but if you don't have them you should put some in there. They kind of line everything up and you can also-- we're in first gear. You can also give her a spin and make sure it turns freely and trying to walk out. That's good. Now when we go to push this home, it's going to shove that that way, don't worry about that when we put the kicker gear on, we'll pull it back this way. We'll leave it like that for now. This is the fun part, we're going to go ahead and get this started on here. Main shaft's going to go through that bearing and of the counter shaft's going to go into that bearing, like so. Now notice it's just got a gap, but this is locked down. What you want to do is you want to pull it back out just a little bit until you can move this. We've got our quadrant free and it's all the way up until it's hitting and then we're going to bring it down and we're going to send this when this starts to come up, that's like one tooth and that should be indexed. Once it hits up, bring it down one tooth and you can see where it's at there. Now what we'll do next is we'll-- look, she spins nice. What we'll do next is we'll go ahead and put the kicker gear on. We'll show you the pieces for this. There's a bunch of stuff going on here, nothing complicated, just a bunch of parts to put on there and make sure they're all there. First there's a washer that goes on first, then you've got the spring and the sleeve that goes down the middle of this, like so and then you have the splines that match the main shaft on this piece. You're just going to put that all on there like so. See how that's got the spring action now, that's for when you're kickstarting your motorcycle so that, so you're going to hold that. You're going to put a new lock tab and it has a little piece, the index and one of those splines, like so. Then, finally, the nut on the outside.
We're going to go ahead and put the three screws and even though we don't have the gasket, I'm just showing you how we're going to index it and then we'll take it back apart and put the sealer on. There's going to be three screws. This one goes here, cheese head. Don't crank them all down till you get them all in. We've got this large allen head goes here. Then this special fastener here with a small head and it has a very small washer because there's a spot right here where it goes, and you can't put a big washer on there because it won't fit.
Now we can go ahead and use our cover to check our shifting to make sure that it's indexed correctly and we'll check to see if it shifts. I'm not going to put all the bolts in here just yet cause I still got to put the gasket on there. I'm just going to hold this on check it. First is all the way down, second, third, fourth. Look at that. She shifts. Fourth, third, second, first, neutral, first, second, third, fourth. Should shift up and down like that a hundred times unless you turn the sprocket or the main shaft and that misaligns things in there. When everything's lined up right, it's a beautiful thing. We're back in first, we'll pop this off. We know what it looks like, where it needs to be. We can kind of get an idea of where it is, we'll pop this back off. We'll put the gasket and some cement on there and we'll be done. Now that wasn't so difficult, was it? I think one of the reasons I put this together, dry wood, no gasket and sealer is because I want to make sure it works before I put my sealer on the gasket, because then if it doesn't shift right, and you're taking the cover off and putting the cover on, and taking the cover off and putting the cover on with sealer and the gasket there. Now that I know it's right, we can do it again. It's not a problem. I got some case sealer here, I'm just going to put a little bit of this on there.
Put her on for the final, final whammy. Once again, we're all the way down and we're going to come up one tooth. That's it right there. Get our fasteners in back in there. I decided to change this fastener because I noticed when I had it trial fit the first time that it was sticking way out the back. Don't ask me how the heck that happened, I don't know. We replaced that with an Allen head, with the correct fine threads for British motorcycles. We'll put our kicker gear back on, washer first, sleeve with spring, a lock tab.
All right, now that we got our gasket and our glue, and we're all tightened down, let's double-check and verify that it does work before we put the cover on for the last time. First gear, second, third, fourth. Once again, when checking your tranny, if it doesn't click through all the gears, ever so slightly rotate the main drive gear or the main shaft, and that'll get things lined up inside there and get it to the point where it does. What I'm doing right now. Click, click, click. Click, click, click, then you know when it's on the road. If it shifts like that on the bench right now, it's going to work when you're on the road.
I'm confident that we have indexed our transmission correctly. We're going to tighten this nut, we're going to put a gasket on here. We're going to install this kicker gear. We'll show you how to wind that baby up so she's tensioned correctly, and we'll be done with this portion here today. We need to torque this nut for the kicker gear. Make sure you got that spring located correctly where that ratcheting gear springs back. Torque spec is 45-foot pounds. Hopefully, it works like this. I've never tried this before. You guys thought I knew what I was doing. That's tight.
All right, we're going to do the same program. We're going to lock the chain in the device around the sprocket to torque that. Let's see how this works, gang. There's 30, let's go a little more. 45 it is. There she is gang, all torqued up. Then, finally, we're going to bend the lock tab over. Like so. I know there's two on there. You don't need to bend them both but then next time if you need to take it apart again, you have another choice. Now, all we got to do-- I'm sorry, the next thing we're going to do is we're going to put the feed return on that goes right here on this stud. Much easier to get that on here now than before you put the kicker cover on. New gasket.
I think we'll lean her over so I can see what's going on. I've got my gasket. I use this to push it up on there onto that little dowel pin that's there and then you're just going to slide this home. Flat washer and a nut. Well, now I know why they normally have a small nut on here. Hard to get to with this big nut. Where'd that come from? There we go, we got it. Tight. One other thing I usually do with these after I get them on the motor is I look at how they're orientated to the bottom of the engine. I'm going to need just a little bit more room to get the hoses on.
I'm going to just give that a little tweak down like that right now while I can because it's easier to get to. Now, I've got pretty even with the bottom. All right, we need to put our kicker gear in the cover. It's a good idea to inspect this surface right here where it rides against that seal to make sure you don't have a groove, or then it won't seal the oil. We'll just put just a little dab of oil on there to help it through that new seal. I'm sure this is going to be a tight one. You know how I love my rubber hammer, bam.
Hey, look at that. We shaved a little bit off of that seal, we did. That's okay. Seal's still in there, it didn't go anywhere. Then, you're going to hook the spring on this titty, bam, like so. Now, what we need to do is grab an old kicker to slip it over the shaft and put a pin on it so we can wind the spring up so it has tension when you kick it through that it'll return. A little bit of sealer on here like we did before.
Be careful not to get it in the holes. That should be good. Always use a new gasket. Once again, we got our little dowels on there like two dowels on each side and a little dab of grease in the hole there, a little bit on there. Take your new kicker, put it on temporarily to wind up our spring. And we could actually put a little bit of sealer on this too. Now that we've got some sealer on there, we're going to wind this baby up, that much. You'll see in a sec here when I put this on, how this works. Basically, we're going to get this started, and then we're going to go past where the stop is, and then it'll go on, like so. Go ahead and get your long screws top and bottom. I did check the threaded holes all the way on the inside, long ago, to be sure they were in good shape because there's nothing like getting to this point of the game to find out you're tightening one of these two long screws and it just keeps spinning because the threads are boogered.
You're going to have two long ones here and the shorter one goes here. Not too tight, just right. Then you've got a couple of sealing washers here and a couple of acorn nuts to go on the studs. So, if you look at the parts book, they show an acorn nut on the top for decoration, and they show a regular nut on the bottom, but since I happen to have two new acorns, I'm just going to go ahead and use those. We also checked all these threads. Make sure everything's happy together. Now we'll put her in neutral. There's our ratcheter. That's returning pretty darn good there. We got her wound up. And there it is. That concludes the transmission portion of our 650 rebuild.
As we can all see, we're getting along pretty good. We got one more area to cover. See you next time, guys.