If you have ever taken a Springer apart, you know it can be a sketchy and daunting task. Compressing the springs so the hardware can be removed without the right tool is frustrating, fear-inducing... or both most of the time!
Well fear not our chopper fiends, we've come up with an answer to make this not-so-fun task a breeze and super safe too!
Introducing our (U.S. Patent-Pending) Premium Springer Fork Compressor Tool for Harley-Davidson style springers. This worry-free tool is extremely effective, works with overlength springers, and is built to last a lifetime.
No more being worried about a ratchet strap busting or a spring taking out your eyeball! Personal safety tip: squinting your eyes and kind of looking a bit to the side will not stop a piece of metal from going right into your eye!
WATCH VIDEO: HOW TO USE PREMIUM HARLEY SPRINGER FORK COMPRESSOR TOOL
You maybe asking, "Why would I even need to take apart a springer?" Well sometimes the top springs or cushion springs wear out, other times you just may want to spruce up the chrome, paint, or powder coat.
Whatever the case maybe, taking apart a springer for maintenance can be dangerous without the proper tools because of how much tension and pressure the springs apply to the hardware.
In this video, Tim Fiorucci shows you how easy it is to use the Premium Springer Fork Compressor Tool on a Mid-USA Antique Style Springer. He explains where each piece of the tool needs to be installed on the springer and demonstrates how it all works.
Tim removes the top fork springs and explains how you can then relieve tension on the rod to allow for the entire springer fork to be disassembled.
The Premium Springer Fork Compressor Tool comes with everything you see here.
HOW TO USE THE HARLEY SPRINGER FORK COMPRESSOR TOOL IN 8 STEPS
If you are the kind of person that prefers to read and look at photos, here are the directions on properly using our Premium Springer Fork Compression Tool. Alternatively, if you are into videos, watch the how-to video here.
Step 1: Take the 3/4" rod and the large bent tab that has two 3/4" axle holes and a slotted hole on the front face. Slide the rod into your rocker like an axle. Then slide the rod through the two holes of the large tab and then into the other rocker.
Make sure the tab is centered on the rod in the center of the springer. You want the slotted hole of the tab to faced towards the lower tree / spring perch.
*Note if your axle is smaller then 3/4" you can use a smaller rod. We suggest not using your actual axle to avoid and unneeded stress added to your front end.
Slide the 3/4" rod through the rocker arm where the axle goes. Then slide it through the two holes on the tab and then the other rocker. Make sure the tab is on the center of the rod, in the center of the springer.
Step 2: Install the rectangle tab with two holes onto the headlight mount located on the spring perch. We supply three washers, a bolt, and a nut to install the rectangle tab onto the headlight mount.
First install the bolt with one washer facing to the top of the springer on the bottom of the headlight mount. Then install a second washer on the top of the headlight mount side of the bolt. The washers will protect the surface where your headlight mounts.
Next you will place the rectangle tab onto the bolt, leaving the the second hole on the tab exposed in front of the springer. Use the third washer on the tab and secure it with the nut.
Firmly secure the tab by tightening the bolt and nut with some hand tools.
Step 3: Take the long threaded rod and put one nut on one side and leave a few inches of threads showing. Then slide the threaded rod through the tab and put another nut on the top side of the tab and leave it loose for now for adjustments.
Long threaded rod, taking second nut off, leave one on with a few inches of threads showing.
Slide the threaded rod through the exposed hole on the rectangle tab.
Step 4: Next you will take the turnbuckle and make sure the hook is seated properly and threads are just barley showing in the middle of it. The hook side is left hand thread, make sure the hook is threaded into the side of the turnbuckle labeled with an L. Next thread the open side of the turnbuckle onto the long threaded rod. Again just make sure the threads are barely showing in the middle of it. The open side is right hand thread.
Because these sides are opposite threads, when you spin the turnbuckle it will pull both threads together in the middle of the turnbuckle. This is why it is important that when you start each side of the turnbuckle there should be minimal threads engaged on both sides.
This is the turnbuckle with the hook threaded into it. Notice just a handful of threads are showing in the center.
You will also notice an L on the turnbuckle, that stands for left hand thread. This is where the hook end should go. On the opposite side of the turnbuckle you will see an R, that stands for right hand thread. This is where you will thread the large threaded rod into.
You want just a small amount of threads showing in the center of the turnbuckle on both sides.
Step 5: Take the hook and insert it into the slotted hole of the large tab on the rod that is going through the rockers. You want to put tension on the entire threaded rod, turnbuckle and hook set up in between the lower tab and upper rectangular tab. Make sure the lower tab is centered in the springer. Tighten down the top nuts once you have enough tension on the threaded rod assembly.
Loosen the bottom nut under the top rectangle tab to give enough room for the hook to slip into the lower tab on the rod going through the rockers.
Slide the hook into the lower tab.
Be sure the lower tab is in the center of the springer before adding tension.
Adjust the lower and top nuts on the top rectangle tab by hand to put tension on the rod assembly.
You can see in this photo the rod assembly is tight and has tension.
Tighten down the top nuts with a couple wrenches.
Step 6: Turn the turnbuckle to compress the springer. You can do this by hand for a little while but if it gets tough, grab a small wrench and continue to rotate the turnbuckle. You will see the threads on the hook side and large threaded rod side come closer together in the center of the turnbuckle. You will also see the cushion springs between the spring perch bridge and spring perch tighten and the top fork springs loosen.
When the top fork springs are able to spin freely by hand you can remove the spring rod upper nut and lower nut. Once those are removed the top fork spring and recoil springs can easily be removed.
At first you can use your hand to spin the turnbuckle and start compress the springer.
Once it gets harder to to spin you can use a small wrench to spin the turnbuckle. Notice the threads going more into the center of the turnbuckle.
As you spin the turnbuckle you will notice the lower cushion springs tighten and the upper fork springs decompress and eventually will spin by hand.
With the top fork springs free and able to rotate by hand. You can now remove the top and lower spring nuts from both top fork springs.
The top fork springs and recoil springs can be removed.
Step 7: If you have to replace the cushion springs, cushion bumper springs, and or anything else on the springer for that matter. Turn the turnbuckle the opposite direction to relieve the tension on the tool.
Once all the tension has been taken out of the tool. Remove the rod assembly from the upper and lower tab. With all the tension gone, everything else on the springer can now be worked on safely. It can be cleaned, taken apart, sent to be re-chromed, whatever your heart desires.
Now you can relieve the tension on the tool to be able to work on the rest of the springer safely.
Step 8: Put the springer back together. Same way you got the top springs off, you will need to compress the springer to get them back on. With the springer looking like the photo above, get your tool set up and turn the turnbuckle to put tension on the springer again.
Compress the lower cushion springs fully. Make sure your spring rod bushings are aligned and reinstall the recoil and upper fork springs. Next, install the lower spring rod nuts and top nuts. Once torqued relieve the tension on tool by turning the turnbuckle the opposite way. Remove the tool and you are now back in business.
Put the springer back together.
And there you have it! We hope you find this tool extremely helpful and easy to use. If you have any questions feel to reach out to us at anytime. Until then, happy chopperin'!
Lowbrow Customs Premium Springer Fork Compressor Tool.
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